Uncovering Ankara’s Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey’s Historic Capital of Cool
Uncovering Ankara's Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey's Historic Capital of Cool - Roam the Roman Ruins of the Ancient Agora
No trip to Ankara is complete without a visit to the ancient Roman Agora, located right in the heart of the modern city. Dating back over 2,000 years, this ancient bazaar and marketplace offers a glimpse into Ankara’s roots as a strategic trading post along the famed Silk Road.
As you wander through the crumbling columns and arched gateways, it’s easy to imagine merchant caravans pausing to water their camels at the on-site fountain before haggling over prices for exotic wares. Strategically situated next to the Roman baths, the Agora was once the bustling center of commerce and community for ancient Ancyra, as Ankara was known during Roman times.
Today, the timeworn remnants of this lively meeting place are an open-air museum showcasing intricate mosaic floors, carved stonework, and partial building foundations. While the sandstone columns are now stumps and many structures mere rubble, the scale and craftsmanship reflect the prosperity and prominence of Ancyra as the capital of the Roman province of Galatia.
Don’t miss the surviving marble gateway, which features carved bull heads and an inscription dating the Agora to the reign of the Emperor Augustus in the first century AD. Nearby placards provide historical context to help make sense of the tumbled ruins. As you pause to take in the sweeping view of Ankara from the Agora’s highest point, it’s easy to envision the comings and goings of toga-clad citizens two millennia ago.
While the footprints of the ancient structures have been exposed through excavation, your imagination still has to fill in much of the picture. Use the information panels on-site along with a quality guidebook to reconstruct the former grandeur in your mind’s eye. Knowledgeable local guides are also available for hire just outside the Agora entrance to enrich your experience.
Don’t let the current fragmented state deter you. The Ankara Agora manages to stir one’s sense of wonder and curiosity about the many roles this hub played in daily Roman life. Beyond trading livestock, grain, olive oil, and exotic wares from the East, the Agora was a melting pot where people gathered to talk politics, share news, worship, bathe, and be entertained.
What else is in this post?
- Uncovering Ankara's Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey's Historic Capital of Cool - Roam the Roman Ruins of the Ancient Agora
- Uncovering Ankara's Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey's Historic Capital of Cool - Sip Turkish Coffee in Historic Hamamönü
- Uncovering Ankara's Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey's Historic Capital of Cool - Wander Through the Whirling Dervish Museum
- Uncovering Ankara's Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey's Historic Capital of Cool - Marvel at Modern Art in the CerModern
- Uncovering Ankara's Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey's Historic Capital of Cool - Explore Offbeat Boutiques in the Kale district
- Uncovering Ankara's Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey's Historic Capital of Cool - Feast on Ankara Tava and Other Local Specialties
- Uncovering Ankara's Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey's Historic Capital of Cool - See the City from Anıtkabir, Atatürk's Mausoleum
- Uncovering Ankara's Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey's Historic Capital of Cool - Discover Üçok Evi, Ankara's Oldest Surviving House
Uncovering Ankara's Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey's Historic Capital of Cool - Sip Turkish Coffee in Historic Hamamönü
No visit to Ankara is complete without sipping thick, muddy Turkish coffee along the cobblestone lanes of the historic Hamamönü district. This atmospheric neighborhood is home to the city's finest traditional kahvehaneler (coffeehouses), where locals gather to play games, chat, and watch the world go by over tiny cups of potent brew.
Unlike the more rushed experience of coffee chains, Turkish coffee culture is leisurely, social, and contemplative. Patrons relax for hours as they slowly savor the strong, muddy coffee cooked directly in the cup with pulverized grounds. The coffee gradually settles, leaving behind a sludgy layer to read one's future from according to Turkish custom.
Hamamönü's century-old kahvehaneler offer the quintessential Turkish coffee experience. With their weathered wood interiors little changed since Ottoman times, these cafes exude old world charm. Patrons recline on worn benches as wisps of apple tobacco shisha and sugary Turkish tea mingle with the thick aroma of freshly brewed coffee. Conversations murmur in Turkish, mingling with the click-clacking of backgammon pieces and dominoes.
For the true local vibe, head to historic Lokum Kahvesi on tree-lined Konur Sokak. Run by the same family since 1945, its interior remains unchanged for generations with low stools along a U-shaped counter. Sip your coffee slowly while watching the crowds meander down the cobblestone lane.
Nearby Demircizade Kahvesi is famed as the second oldest coffeehouse in Ankara, serving patrons since 1920 in an antique-filled interior. Its walls are elegantly decorated with paintings by Turkish masters. Regulars pack the place on weekends to play cards and tavla (backgammon).
On bustling Hamamönü Caddesi itself, duck into cozy Çengelhan Rahmi Koç Kahvesi, located in a restored 15th century inn. Savor your coffee in the shady courtyard or ornate interior while surrounded by Ottoman furnishings. It's a prime spot to experience Turkish coffee culture amidst historic ambiance.
While you'll find traditional coffeehouses throughout Ankara's old quarters, Hamamönü excels in transporting you back in time. The calls to prayer echoing between the neighborhood's Ottoman-era mosques and baths heighten the nostalgic mood. Strolling these lanes after your coffee, you can easily imagine goat herders and trade caravans passing by centuries ago.
Uncovering Ankara's Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey's Historic Capital of Cool - Wander Through the Whirling Dervish Museum
Lose yourself in the hypnotic world of the whirling dervishes at Ankara's Mevlevi Museum. Housed in a historic dergah (monastery) dating to the 13th century, this atmospheric museum sheds light on the mystical Mevlevi Sufi tradition. Through exhibits of artifacts, costumes, manuscripts, and instruments, you’ll gain insight into the rituals, beliefs, and way of life of these enigmatic ascetics who sought spiritual transcendence through dance.
A highlight is exploring the semahane, a domed ceremonial hall where the dervishes performed their famous spinning dance to attain religious ecstasy. The hall retains its original woodwork and ornamentation, transporting you back centuries. As you walk the circuit of the hall, information panels chronicle how the dervishes interpreted the dance’s symbolism as they turned in repetitive circles, arms outstretched, palms upturned to the heavens.
Intricately embroidered silk kemhas, cloaks, and conical felt hats bring the dervish costumes to life. On display as well are the kudüm ritual drums and ney reed flutes that provided the accompanying music to inspire the monks’ movement. Manuscripts, albums, and calligraphic works highlight the Sufi philosophy and poetry that grounded the dervishes’ spiritual quest.
Through the exhibits, you’ll learn how the dervishes structured their days between prayer, ritual, contemplation, and ascetic practices in this very compound. One section explains the meanings behind the four sacred doors of the dergah that symbolized the stages of Sufi enlightenment. Historic photographs give you glimpses into past daily life.
Don’t miss the opportunity to visit the türbe, the mausoleum holding the remains of Mevlana Celaleddin Rumi, the famous 13th century Persian poet and mystic who founded the Mevlevi Sufi order before settling in Konya. The adjacent small mosque contains cancelli, intricate latticework screens through which the dervishes could view religious services unseen from the monastery’s living quarters.
Allow ample time to immerse yourself in the mystical aura of the museum brought to life by the alluring exhibits and original architectural details. An onsite tea garden beckons afterward to reflect on your journey into the dervishes’ spiritual universe. The museum succeeds in imparting an authentic experience of this enigmatic world that captivated past travelers from the Victorian era onwards.
Uncovering Ankara's Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey's Historic Capital of Cool - Marvel at Modern Art in the CerModern
Step into Ankara's premier modern art museum, CerModern, to encounter Turkey's contemporary art scene in a strikingly renovated train depot. Once a locomotive workshop dating to the early 1900s, CerModern has been reinvented as a sleek gallery space focused on promoting today's Turkish artists.
The soaring halls, expansive windows, and industrial-chic details of the former train station now provide an ideal backdrop for edgy installations, bold canvases, and thought-provoking multimedia works. As you browse the modern paintings, sculptures, videos, and photographs, information panels enrich the experience by shedding light on each piece and the creative process behind it.
One of CerModern's strengths is representing the diversity of contemporary Turkish artistic expression. Exhibits highlight both emerging and established talents while focusing on artists from around Turkey instead of only Istanbul. You'll encounter pieces tackling wide-ranging themes from identity and memory to modernization and urbanization.
Don't miss CerModern's striking permanent collection that includes over 200 works by seminal Turkish artists who pioneered modern aesthetics. Highlights include Erol Akyavaş's Cubist-inspired canvases, Ibrahim Balaban's surreal multiplicity boxes, and Güngör Taner’s thought-provoking Anatolian Women sculptures.
Many visitors rave about how CerModern succeeds in making modern art accessible through its clean layout, thoughtful curation, and engaging exhibits. The chronological sequence helps contextualize the evolution of Turkey's contemporary scene from the mid-1900s avant-garde to today. English placards provide insight into each innovative artist's vision to aid understanding.
While exhibits rotate regularly, you're likely to catch multimedia shows that utilize CerModern's industrial setting. Installations make use of the soaring stairwells, exposed beams, and train track remnants in creative ways. You may encounter artworks dangling from rafters, video projections spilling across concrete walls, or sculpture displays within coal wagons.
Don't neglect to explore CerModern's surrounding sculpture garden as well. The outdoor area sprinkled with contemporary pieces makes an inviting setting to contemplate your viewing experience over coffee or a bite to eat. On weekends, the complex buzzes with special programs ranging from concerts to film screenings, many free to the public.
Uncovering Ankara's Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey's Historic Capital of Cool - Explore Offbeat Boutiques in the Kale district
Beyond Ankara's historical sights, the charming Kale district tempts with its warren of winding lanes hiding trendy cafes, indie boutiques, and artisan workshops. As you meander down cobblestone alleys too narrow for cars, each turn reveals a curated shop proudly displaying handmade crafts, eccentric antiques, or avant-garde fashions unlike the big chain stores found elsewhere.
For innovative jewelry, duck into Mekan Art & Design to peruse their pins, earrings, necklaces, and bracelets made from found objects. Talented designers transform bike chains, typewriter keys, wall plugs, and computer circuit boards into chic statement pieces. The eclectic jewelry brilliantly blends contemporary industrial style with Turkish flourishes.
Nearby Manazır Sanat takes a contemporary approach to traditional Turkish handicrafts. Their modern ceramics, embroidered textiles, and hand-painted glass put innovative spins on classic designs. Talented artisans from villages across Anatolia collaborate with the owners to give age-old practices a fresh twist. Beyond the boutique, you can peek into their workshop to see local masters ply their trades.
For antique Turkish carpets that make exotic souvenirs or decor accents back home, head to Selçuk Yağcı. Their three-story shop brims with vintage kilims and carpets crafted using centuries-old weaving methods. Shopkeepers eagerly explain tribal patterns and symbols while offering Turkish tea.
Don't miss Ifa Art Gallery's two-level showroom filled with hundreds of antique prints, maps, Ottoman lithographs, and whirling dervish illuminations exuding nostalgic allure. Sepia landscapes and portraits depict Turkey and the Middle East from centuries past.
While deluxe shops abound, don't overlook humbler storefronts where shopkeepers hawk hand-woven scarves, nazar amulets, and ceramic bowls from cluttered benches. Kale excels at artisanal finds priced for all budgets. For custom-made jackets, bags, and lamps created from vintage fabrics and trims, step into tiny atölyes (workshops) to commission your own artisan treasure.
Beyond shopping, Kale tempts with atmospheric cafes perfect for refueling between boutiques. Sip Turkish coffee on mismatched stools at coffeehouses that blend quirky and cozy. Or unwind at one of the casual bars housed in converted Ottoman-era wood structures. Mingle with a hip young crowd on panoramic rooftop terraces.
Uncovering Ankara's Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey's Historic Capital of Cool - Feast on Ankara Tava and Other Local Specialties
Ankara prides itself on its mouthwatering regional cuisine, so be sure to sample some of the area's signature dishes during your visit. While Turkey's capital may not enjoy Istanbul's international culinary fame, locals will eagerly direct you to their favorite eateries serving hearty Ankara classics. Venturing to these local joints lets you experience authentic flavors and rub shoulders with residents enthusiastic about their city's underrated food scene.
Topping every Ankara foodie's list is Ankara tava, a tender lamb dish named after the copper tava pan it's cooked in. Chunks of lamb are simmered for hours with tomatoes, peppers, garlic, and spices until fork tender. The comforting stew is then mopped up with fresh pide bread. For an authentic tava experience, head to Ozan Balık Lokantası, where the house specialty emerges aromatic and melt-in-your-mouth from the kitchen's sizzling pans. Their hidden courtyard dining room enhances the neighborhood vibe.
While you're sampling Ankara's namesake dish, don't neglect hitsur - creamy smoked wheatballs mixed with spices and tomatoes. The hearty meal derives its smoky essence from roasting the wheat over fruitwood between moistened towels. Locals line up at veteran Kebapçı İskender for their melt-in-your-mouth hitsur paired with velvety hummus.
Beyond meaty mains, Ankara's sweet tooth shines through in its beloved pastries. Locals start the day with simit, chewy sesame-crusted bread rings that street vendors stack to sell fresh from pushcarts. Flaky, paper-thin Gözleme stuffed with cheese, spinach, or potato make ideal snacks. But save room for Ankara's signature sweet - leblebi tatlısı. The creamy, toffee-like dessert is made from peanuts, sugar, and flour roasted in massive copper kazans before shaping into cylinders. Its rich nutty crunch makes it addictive.
Uncovering Ankara's Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey's Historic Capital of Cool - See the City from Anıtkabir, Atatürk's Mausoleum
No visit to Ankara is complete without making the pilgrimage up to the sprawling Atatürk Mausoleum, known as Anıtkabir, that watches over the capital from its lofty hilltop perch. As the monumental memorial tomb of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the beloved leader who founded modern Turkey, this landmark offers profound insight into the Turkish nation’s deep reverence for its founder dubbed “Father of the Turks.” Beyond housing Atatürk’s tomb, Anıtkabir functions as an illuminating museum showcasing his remarkable legacy.
Approaching along the Cromwell-esque ceremonial boulevard lined with honor guards, the sheer scale and solemn beauty of Anıtkabir’s neoclassical architecture makes an imposing first impression. But once inside, the excellent museum brings Atatürk’s persona to life alongside the extensively detailed story of Turkey’s dramatic reforms under his leadership. Highlights include Atatürk’s clothing, personal effects, gifts from worldwide admirers, and recreation of his office. Informative displays trace his military campaigns alongside political, social, and cultural advancements.
Don’t rush through - reading the illuminating exhibit placards gives deep understanding of Atatürk’s visionary yet controversial policies and lasting impact on every facet of Turkish society. Galleries outline reforms from adopting the Latin alphabet, relegating Islam from public life, expanding education and voting rights for women, banning the fez hat, adopting Western dress, and instituting secular government.
After immersing yourself in Atatürk’s remarkable legacy, entering his lofty mausoleum lined in marble becomes all the more poignant. Mosaic panoramas depict pivotal moments in the formation of the Turkish Republic under his command. Standing before his striking sarcophagus, flanked by bronze wreaths gifted by nations worldwide, you’ll grasp Turkey’s enduring gratitude toward their progressive, authoritarian, and complex leader.
While Anıtkabir warrants several hours to explore in depth, it excels too as an elevated vista point for panoramic views over Ankara and the surrounding steppe. Pause to appreciate the meticulous landscaping gracing the sprawling complex. Formal gardens interspersed with exhibition galleries all pay tribute to Atatürk’s values and vision for building a modern Turkey. Don't miss seeing the marble Unity Tower when illuminated after dark.
Uncovering Ankara's Hidden Gems: The Secrets of Turkey's Historic Capital of Cool - Discover Üçok Evi, Ankara's Oldest Surviving House
Step back through the centuries as you cross the creaking wooden threshold into Üçok Evi, Ankara’s oldest surviving private residence. Dating originally from the 1840s, this sprawling Ottoman timber mansion offers a portal into aristocratic life during the mid-19th century. Wandering through the beautifully preserved interiors and ornamented rooms brings the old tales of pashas, concubines, and eunuchs to life.
Details like hand-carved woodwork, original frescoes, and Delft tile-trimmed fireplaces will transport you back to the house’s heyday as an elite family’s private estate. Costumed guides really enhance the experience by portraying past residents and describing traditions and customs of Ottoman high society. You’ll gain vivid insight into how prominent officials relaxed, dined, entertained, and family life played out within these walls.
Don’t miss ambling through the haramlık, the women’s wing, to picture the secluded world of wives and concubines passing days in the ornate harem chambers. Intricately inlaid wooden furnishings, cozy corner seating areas, and rare surviving textiles recapture the feminine touches. Yet graffiti carved into closet corners hints at the frustrations of cloistered lives.
Equally fascinating is exploring the selamlık, the men’s quarters, to envision dignitaries smoking pipes and sipping coffee in the formal receiving hall. Display cases exhibit tobacco pouches, turban pins, and other gentlemanly accessories of the era. Upstairs, the mirrored bedroom of the head wife comes alive through the elaborate original wall paintings.
Yet while immersion in Ottoman elite culture is a highlight, equally interesting is appreciating Üçok Evi’s lasting legacy. Miraculously avoiding demolition under redevelopment, it stands today as one of the few remaining heritage timber houses of its kind in Ankara. Its rescue, restoration, and conversion into a house museum saved an invaluable window into everyday lives from a vanished time.