Ooh La La! A Local’s Guide to Experiencing the Real Paris Like a True Parisian
Ooh La La! A Local's Guide to Experiencing the Real Paris Like a True Parisian - Café Culture is King
No trip to Paris is complete without experiencing the city's lively café culture. Parisians have perfected the art of lounging at cafés for hours, and visitors would do well to embrace this tradition. After all, the café terraces and bustling espresso bars are an integral part of what makes Paris so magical.
Start your day like a true Parisian with a stop at a corner café for un café and croissant. Sit back with your morning paper and watch the neighborhood come to life. The regulars will start filing in, exchanging cheek kisses and lighting up cigarettes over their small, strong coffees. This is prime people watching, a favorite Parisian pastime. Listen closely and you may pick up snippets of conversation about politics or last night's soiree.
Around lunchtime, snag an outdoor table at a brasserie in Saint-Germain and order a salade composée and glass of rosé. Spend the afternoon chatting with friends or reading a book, taking in the street scenes around you. This is the epitome of Parisian leisure. An afternoon at a café terrace is the perfect break between sightseeing adventures.
In the late afternoon, stop into a tea salon like Ladurée for macarons and tea, or a literary café like Les Deux Magots where luminaries like Hemingway and Picasso once gathered. Order an aperitif and strike up conversation with fellow patrons as the evening crowd flows in.
When hunger strikes, head to a bustling bar à vin for cheese, charcuterie and affordable French wines. Rub elbows with locals at the bar or grab a table to linger over cheap and cheerful French fare. This is the perfect budget-friendly dinner option after a day of sightseeing.
Late at night, join the hip young things at an all-night café in the Marais. Sip cocktails or nibble on small plates as DJs spin. These venues stay open until the wee hours, and are the perfect place to dance, drink and feel the Parisian nightlife energy.
What else is in this post?
- Ooh La La! A Local's Guide to Experiencing the Real Paris Like a True Parisian - Café Culture is King
- Ooh La La! A Local's Guide to Experiencing the Real Paris Like a True Parisian - Wander the Arrondissements for Hidden Gems
- Ooh La La! A Local's Guide to Experiencing the Real Paris Like a True Parisian - Shop at the Outdoor Markets Like a Pro
- Ooh La La! A Local's Guide to Experiencing the Real Paris Like a True Parisian - Be a Flâneur Along the Seine
- Ooh La La! A Local's Guide to Experiencing the Real Paris Like a True Parisian - Learn the Lingo and Etiquette
- Ooh La La! A Local's Guide to Experiencing the Real Paris Like a True Parisian - Dine at Bistros Off the Beaten Path
Ooh La La! A Local's Guide to Experiencing the Real Paris Like a True Parisian - Wander the Arrondissements for Hidden Gems
Paris is neatly divided into 20 arrondissements or districts, each with its own vibe and hidden treasures to uncover. While it’s easy to stick to the well-trodden tourist routes, I highly recommend venturing into Paris’ lesser-known neighborhoods. This is where you’ll experience Parisian life and find those hidden gems that most visitors miss.
One of my favorite arrondissements to explore is the hilly Montmartre in the 18th. Known for the iconic Sacré-Coeur basilica perched atop the Butte Montmartre, this artsy district also houses the Moulin Rouge and charming cobblestone streets lined with wine bars, ateliers and indie shops. Wander up rue Lepic with its secret vineyards and staircases, and the lovely carousel at Place des Abbesses. Stop for an affordable French lunch at Café Burq or take in a show at the pocket-sized cabaret Au Lapin Agile. This is the atmospheric Paris of Amélie and artists’ garrets.
Just across the Seine, the untouristy 13th arrondissement offers a completely different vibe. Once an industrial area, the 13th is now home to Chinatown and the city’s largest Vietnamese community. The excellent Asian markets provide prime people watching and snacking opportunities. Don’t miss the dizzying 168-foot dragon mural at Les Olympiades. After, refuel with Vietnamese sandwiches at Mistigri or pillowy Chinese soup dumplings at Dumpling Queen.
Hop the metro to the 12th arrondissement, one of my favorite up-and-coming neighborhoods. The bohemian Bercy district has become a destination in its own right, with charming wine bars, breweries, shops and parks along the Seine. Try natural wines at Vine, craft beer at Mozaic, or coffee from Belleville Brûlerie. The massive Parc de Bercy provides a verdant escape, while the Promenade Plantée is a raised railway park offering unique city views.
No Paris trip is complete without getting lost wandering the city’s atmospheric passages couverts – glass-roofed arcades filled with charming boutiques and cafes. The granddaddy is the 19th-century Passage des Panoramas in the 2nd, but I prefer the more intimate Galerie Véro Dodat and Passage des Princes near Boulevard des Italiens. Locals frequent these historic arcades to escape the rain and enjoy a quintessentially Parisian moment.
Ooh La La! A Local's Guide to Experiencing the Real Paris Like a True Parisian - Shop at the Outdoor Markets Like a Pro
No trip to Paris is complete without a visit to one of the city’s famed outdoor markets. These vibrant bazaars are the heart and soul of Parisian neighborhood life. Locals flock here to buy fresh produce, artisanal cheeses, breads, and all manner of gourmet goods. Savvy visitors quickly learn that Paris’ markets are not only great fun, but also the best places to snag high-quality French delicacies at reasonable prices.
My favorite Parisian markets are the sprawling Marché Bastille and intimate Marché des Enfants Rouges in the Marais. Arrive early to beat the crowds and glimpse the markets as the locals do. Wander slowly, taking in lush displays of seasonal fruits and vegetables, mounds of olives, bouquets of fresh-cut flowers, and vendors arranging still-warm baguettes. Don’t miss the rotisserie chicken stands, always with long lines of Parisians waiting patiently for that ideal roast bird.
When shopping Paris’ markets, keep an eye out for stands selling prepared foods perfect for an impromptu picnic. Look for Sicilian arancini, Japanese bento boxes, or North African couscous and tagines. Pair your market finds with a bottle of French wine or cider and you have the makings of a mouthwatering and affordable market meal.
Paris’ street markets are also treasure troves for gourmet items to bring home or gift to friends. Peruse stands laden with jars of artisanal jams, honeys, and mustards. Browse colorful macarons, buttery shortbreads, and chocolates from Paris’ top pâtisseries. Don’t miss the cheese mongers with their enticing pyramids of perfectly aged fromages. Chat with charcuterie vendors and try a sample of smooth pâté or salty dry-cured saucisson.
When cheese shopping, look for Appellation d'Origine Protégée labels, which guarantee authentic, traditional production methods. For wine, keep an eye out for bottles designated Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, also regulated for quality and geographic origin.
If your market shopping bags grow heavy, do as the locals do and stop for un café créme and croissant. This is the quintessential French market breakfast. Sit on a terrace or curbside, sip your coffee, nibble your pastry, and take in the market bustle.
Ooh La La! A Local's Guide to Experiencing the Real Paris Like a True Parisian - Be a Flâneur Along the Seine
The Seine River is the lifeblood of Paris, winding languidly through the heart of the city. One of the best ways to immerse yourself in Parisian culture is to stroll boulevard Saint-Michel along the Left Bank, or quai de Montebello on the Right Bank, and embrace your inner flâneur.
This tradition of aimless urban wandering was born in 19th century Paris. For the flâneur, the city streets become a moveable feast for the senses. Let the rhythm of Paris wash over you as you meander slowly along the Seine. Pause frequently to appreciate scenes of daily Parisian life: an old man fishing off the Pont Neuf, a couple kissing beneath a lime tree, a grandmother and child feeding ducks crumbs of baguette.
The flâneur finds poetry in these ordinary moments. He lingers over second-hand book stalls on the parapet, eavesdrops on students debating philosophy on the riverbank, admires Impressionist paintings capturing 19th century life along the Seine. As a flâneur, you weave anonymously through the urban tapestry, observing but never interrupting its flow.
This meditative pace allows you to notice details you’d otherwise miss, like shrines to patron saints embedded in building walls, historic plaques marking the Seine’s high water marks, elaborate belle époque friezes on ornate apartment façades. As a flâneur, you feel the pulse of the city, see how its rhythms change from dawn to dusk.
Flânerie is best experienced in Saint Germain des Prés, the Seine’s intellectual heart. Stroll Rue Bonaparte, once home to writers like George Sand and modern thinkers Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir. Linger in cafe Le Flore with an afternoon espresso, channeling the existentialist vibe that once held court here.
Head down Rue de Buci, where old world cafes and olive oil shops bump up against Gallic takes on sushi and tacos. The vintage façades have changed little sincewriter Ernest Hemingway called this area home in the 1920s. Walk slowly, breathe it all in.
The Seine’s only island, Île de la Cité, is another prime spot for wandering. On Petit Pont, buskers perform Edith Piaf songs with such passion she feels resurrected. Watch the troubled waters of Notre Dame pass under your feet en route to the sea, as they have for centuries. Circle back along Quai de l’Horloge, pausing to admire the Conciergerie’s twin turrets.
End by Pont Neuf, the Seine's oldest bridge dating back to 1607. Ponder the horses heads embedded in the facade, representing famous figures throughout French history. Watch the play of light transform Notre Dame into a living, breathing work of art.
Ooh La La! A Local's Guide to Experiencing the Real Paris Like a True Parisian - Learn the Lingo and Etiquette
While Parisians are renowned for their exceptional cuisine, fashion sense, and joie de vivre, they are sometimes accused of being cold or rude. However, visitors who make an effort to learn some key French phrases and etiquette tips will often find locals to be quite friendly and welcoming. After all, the language you speak reflects the culture you wish to embrace.
Start by mastering French greetings and pleasantries like “bonjour”, “au revoir”, and “merci”. Always say hello when entering a shop or café and goodbye when leaving. Use s’il vous plaît (please) and merci liberally to be extra polite. While many Parisians speak excellent English, they appreciate when visitors at least attempt the language.
Rest assured, most Parisians will politely correct your pronunciation or grammar without judgement. One helpful tip – listen carefully to their inflection and mimic their lyrical intonation. Speak slowly, don’t be afraid to pause between thoughts. The French language and culture emphasizes thoughtful reflection.
Parisians are more formal than Americans. Use Monsieur or Madame when addressing shopkeepers or wait staff. Shake hands when meeting someone for the first time, even socially. The distinctive bise or cheek kiss is reserved for close friends and family. Stick to handshakes and you’ll avoid awkward moments.
While dining, never rest your elbows on the table or signal the server with a raised hand – simply make eye contact. And don’t ask for substitutions or special orders at restaurants – the menu is carefully crafted and altering dishes is frowned upon. Relax and enjoy the meal the chef intended.
When walking city streets or riding the metro, avoid speaking loudly or calling attention to yourself. Parisians pride themselves on being discreet. Keep your voice low, avoid boisterous laughter or rowdy behavior. Public spaces call for reserved politeness.
Parisians also value their privacy and personal space. Avoid asking overly personal questions of new acquaintances. And give others ample room on public transit; crowding or jostling is considered rude.
Patience and punctuality are also paramount. Don’t arrive late for dinner or social engagements, as this shows disrespect. And be prepared to wait your turn in queues – no cutting in line or trying to rush servers. The Parisian pace of life is measured.
While Parisians often seem immersed in their own thoughts, don’t be afraid to ask locals for help or recommendations. Contrary to belief, Parisians will gladly assist if you’re polite about it. Just remember to greet them and say thank you.
And Parisians adore conversing about food, philosophy, art, and fashion. If you demonstrate real interest in those subjects, you’re sure to spark lively debates. The key is taking time to listen and understand opposing views.
Ooh La La! A Local's Guide to Experiencing the Real Paris Like a True Parisian - Dine at Bistros Off the Beaten Path
While Paris is home to many Michelin starred restaurants, don’t overlook the city’s charming local bistros. These cozy neighborhood eateries serve up authentic French comfort food at reasonable prices. Venturing to less touristy areas opens the door to memorable meals where you can rub elbows with locals. As a self-described “gastronomic adventurer”, I seek out hole-in-the-wall spots far from the madding crowds. These hidden gems offer a true taste of Paris.
Start by ducking into Le Petit Saint Benoît in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, just steps from the city’s famed cafes but bereft of tourists. With checked tablecloths, rustic wood beams and handwritten chalkboard menus, this bistro oozes old Paris charm. Daily specials depend on what looks fresh at the market, but might include silky savory duck confit or melt-in-your-mouth boeuf bourguignon. Locals crowd the bar sipping vin rouge while tucking into heaping salade Nicoise or textbook steak frites. Service comes with a smile and there’s always room for one more. At €25 a head, it’s a steal.
Hop the metro north to Canal Saint Martin, a trendy area with a laid-back vibe. Tuck into a quiet side street to Le Verre Volé, a wine shop with a few tables offering simple, artfully prepared food. The charcuterie board brims with rustic pâté, smooth chicken liver mousse, and paper-thin jambon de bayonne. Daily quiches have perfectly flaky crusts and change seasonally – asparagus in spring, mushroom in fall. Wash it down with any of the excellent by-the-glass wines. Come at off hours to snag a coveted table or do like the locals: order à emporter and picnic along the picturesque canal.
Next, cab it south for a taste of North African spice in the multiethnic Belleville neighborhood. Miznon is an outpost of celebrity Israeli chef Eyal Shani’s global gourmet sandwich shop. Lines stretch down the block as hip young Parisians queue for pita stuffed with babaganoush, crispy eggplant, and herb-laced chicken. The vibe is fast casual but the food elevates standard street fare. While you wait, sip a glass of peppery Israeli red wine amid funky sidewalk seating. Belleville’s gritty vibe enhances the experience.
Venture east across town to bistro Le 6 Paul Bert in the bourgeois 11th, where Chef Bertrand Auboyneaux reinvents classics. Start with velvety scrambled eggs in black truffle butter before diving into silken seared foie gras over lentils. My favorite is the simply roasted chicken, moist and infused with herbs, served on a bed of buttery potato purée. Seasonal produce shines in sides like roasted beets in hazelnut oil. Servers exude Parisian aloofness but the cuisine transports you. Budget about €60 per person for a feast.