Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider’s Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia’s History and Culture in a Weekend
Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider's Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia's History and Culture in a Weekend - Gateway to the Sahara: Kairouan
Just a three hour drive from Tunis, Kairouan provides the perfect gateway to start your Saharan adventure. As the fourth holiest city in Islam after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem, Kairouan wears its religious significance proudly. The walled medina's orderly layout and hundreds of untouched monuments showcase its illustrious history as an Islamic learning center.
Wander through the labyrinthine streets and let your imagination transport you back to the city's heyday in the 9th-11th centuries, when Kairouan was the capital of the Aghlabid dynasty. Marvel at the intricate stonework and soaring minarets of the Great Mosque, built in the year 670. Climb the 130 steps of the minaret for panoramic views over the medina's sea of terracotta roofs.
After exploring the bustling souks, head to the ancient Aghlabid Basins to the north of the medina. These vast open-air pools were engineered in the 8th century to collect rainwater for irrigation. The sprawling ruins make an atmospheric spot for sunset, with the last rays of light glinting off the remaining pools.
Venture further north to discover Kairouan's distinctive manaresh - private Koranic schools named after the wooden platforms (manara) where students once studied. The Sidi Sahab Mausoleum is the most splendid manaresh, adorned with carved stucco and green-glazed tilework. For a more rugged experience, drive 22 miles south of Kairouan into the desert to explore the ancient fortified granaries of Aghram Nadharif.
What else is in this post?
- Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider's Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia's History and Culture in a Weekend - Gateway to the Sahara: Kairouan
- Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider's Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia's History and Culture in a Weekend - Seaside Sensations: Bizerte and Tabarka
- Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider's Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia's History and Culture in a Weekend - Mountainous Majesty: Jebel Chambi National Park
- Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider's Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia's History and Culture in a Weekend - Ancient Ruins Abound: Bulla Regia and Chemtou
- Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider's Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia's History and Culture in a Weekend - Culinary Delights: Local Specialties to Savor
- Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider's Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia's History and Culture in a Weekend - Handicrafts of the Medina: Shopping for Souvenirs
- Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider's Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia's History and Culture in a Weekend - Spectacular Sunsets: Places to Catch Dusk
- Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider's Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia's History and Culture in a Weekend - Day Trips from Tunis: Easy Excursions
Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider's Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia's History and Culture in a Weekend - Seaside Sensations: Bizerte and Tabarka
After uncovering Kairouan's storied history, head north to Tunisia's Mediterranean coastline for a seaside escape. The port towns of Bizerte and Tabarka offer laid-back vibes, fresh seafood and stretches of golden sand lapped by the gentle waves of the Med.
Begin in Bizerte, just an hour's drive from Tunis. Wander the atmospheric streets of the old Ottoman quarter, taking in the Turkish-style houses painted in pastel blues and yellows. The facade of the 17th century Zaouia of Sidi Abdelkader boasts intricate Arabic calligraphy and colorful ceramic tiles. Stop for a strong Turkish coffee at Café De France, housed in an elegant colonnaded building that's been a fixture on the main square since the 1920s.
Don't miss the iconic Ponton, a 900-foot long pedestrian bridge leading out to the 19th century Fort of Kasba. This crumbling citadel provides epic views over Bizerte's sizable harbor. At night, the Ponton comes alive with locals strolling and sipping mint tea at the many outdoor cafes.
For swimming and sunbathing, make your way to Playa, the main beach right in the heart of town. Spiaggia, on the outskirts, offers a quieter experience with golden sands and calm turquoise waters. Splurge on a seafood feast at Restaurant Bleu Marine, where the catch of the day is grilled to perfection.
An hour and a half west along the coast sits Tabarka, nestled between the sea and the Khroumirie mountains. Palm trees line the busy marina filled with fishing boats laden with the day's catch. The Genoese castle perched above the harbor provides sweeping vistas over the red-roofed medina.
Tabarka's beaches are second to none. Plage Ain el Goulli boasts bright blue waters and activities like jet skiing, kayaking and banana boat rides. For more seclusion, head to the quiet coves around Cap Negro. Pack a picnic and watch the fiery colors of sunset across the sea.
Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider's Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia's History and Culture in a Weekend - Mountainous Majesty: Jebel Chambi National Park
Rising majestically above the northern plains, Jebel Chambi provides a scenic contrast to Tunisia's desert landscapes. This rugged mountain range forms the centerpiece of Jebel Chambi National Park, which protects 57,000 acres of diverse ecosystems. Outdoor enthusiasts flock here to experience the cool, pine-scented air and marvel at North Africa's highest peak south of the Atlas Mountains.
A dizzying drive up steep switchbacks leads to the park's entrance. From here, various hiking trails wind through oak and cedar forests straight out of a fairy tale. The easy Promenade des Oiseaux loop makes a pleasant introduction, especially in spring when wildflowers carpet the mountainsides. More demanding routes lead to breathtaking viewpoints like the Cascade des Oiseaux with its 25-foot waterfall.
The pièce de résistance is the hike to Jebel Chambi's 5,200-foot summit. Fit hikers can make it to the top in around 4 hours. The climb rewards with jaw-dropping 360 degree vistas across the patchwork fields and villages of the Béja plain to the Gulf of Tunis. Early risers can catch the sunrise from the peak - an unforgettable experience.
After working up an appetite, refuel with a hearty Berber-style lunch at Auberge Sidi Mansour. This cozy restaurant dishes up regional specialties like spicy merguez sausages and ojja, a scrambled egg dish with tomatoes and harissa. Friendly owner Mansour regales guests with fascinating folktales over steaming glasses of mint tea. Don't miss his homemade fig jam bursting with sweet, jammy flavor.
Nature lovers rave about the excellent birdwatching in the park. Over 100 species have been recorded here, including the endangered North African blue-winged warbler with its melodic song. Lucky visitors may spot a shy Barbary macaque or bronze-colored jackal. Spend a night at the park's basic but peaceful campground to increase your chances of wildlife sightings.
While all seasons have their charm, late spring brings carpets of wildflowers and pleasant temperatures ideal for hiking. By July, the higher elevations offer welcome respite from the coastal heat. November through February can see substantial snow, closing the main park road. No matter when you visit, prepare for brisk winds and sudden changes in mountain weather.
Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider's Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia's History and Culture in a Weekend - Ancient Ruins Abound: Bulla Regia and Chemtou
Venturing off the beaten path rewards intrepid travelers with a glimpse into Tunisia's ancient history. Two lesser-known archaeological sites in the country's northwest provide a fascinating look at North Africa under Roman rule.
First up is Bulla Regia, located around 100 miles southwest of Tunis near the Algerian border. Founded in the 2nd century BCE, this Roman outpost reached its zenith in the 3rd and 4th centuries CE. Bulla Regia's unique subterranean villas allowed escaping the scorching heat. Walking through the cool, dimly lit rooms transports you back to a long-vanished era. Lavish mosaics depicting mythological scenes adorn the floors, although some are cordoned off to prevent damage. My favorite was a mosaic of Venus rising from the sea, her nude form subtly obscured behind billowing scarves.
Above ground, columns mark the outlines of Roman temples and theaters. While not much remains besides the foundations, it still impresses to stand amid structures dating back over 1,500 years. Don't miss the Hunting Baths with their well-preserved hypocaust system used to heat the caldarium. Bulla Regia doesn't attract huge crowds, allowing you to soak up the ambiance in peace. Arriving early in the day beats not just the heat but the tour buses.
An hour's drive north lies Chemtou, a partially excavated mountainside quarry that once supplied yellow marble for Rome's most prestigious buildings. Chemtou marble graces such iconic sites as the Pantheon, the Baths of Caracalla, and Hadrian's Villa. Walking the quarry's ancient roadways, chisel marks still visible on the stones, evokes the toil of thousands of slaves forced into backbreaking labor.
Several immense monolithic columns remain embedded in the mountainside, abandoned during extraction due to cracks and flaws. Weighing over 100 tons, the mammoth blocks underscore the incredible skill of Roman engineers. Scramble up the rubble for panoramic views over the endless diggings extending into the distance. The sheer vastness of Chemtou brings home ancient Rome's enormous reach and resources.
Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider's Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia's History and Culture in a Weekend - Culinary Delights: Local Specialties to Savor
Tunisia's cuisine showcases influences from across the Mediterranean and North Africa, blending olive oils and tomates from the north with fiery harissa and fragrant spice blends from the south. Food-focused travelers will delight in discovering the country's diverse regional specialties.
Seafood features prominently along the coast, where you'll find octopus, squid, shrimp, and an array of fish swimming daily to local markets. Grilled, fried, or steamed, the catch of the day shines when cooked simply and paired with a squeeze of lemon. Don't leave Tunisia without trying the buttery, delicate flavor of the prized rouget (red mullet). At no-frills beach shacks in Tabarka, Sidi Bou Said, and other seaside towns, pick your fish straight from the display and watch the grill master work his magic.
Venture inland to the pastoral northwest, where Berber traditions hold sway. Hearty lamb and goat stews brim with warm spices like cumin, ginger, and saffron. Mhamas is a typical beef pot roast, slow-cooked for hours in earthenware pots until meltingly tender. Gamey kebabs of quail and partridge satisfy carnivorous cravings. For vegetable lovers, smoky roasted eggplant and peppers do not disappoint. Mop up every last drop of the flavorful broths with crusty rounds of Tabouna bread hot from the clay oven.
No Tunisian feast is complete without brik, the quintessential snack of paper-thin pastry wrapped around a savory filling. Try the classic tuna, egg, parsley and harissa combo, or branch out to other fillings like spicy potato or chicken with lemony preserved lemons. Crunchy and flaky on the outside, steaming hot within, it's a messily delicious experience. For an elegant contemporary take, dine at Dar Zarrouk in Sidi Bou Said, where chef Nour's sea brik with John Dory and saffron creme anglaise elevates this street food favorite to haute cuisine.
Those with a sweet tooth will rejoice at the pastries crafted by Tunisia's French colonial heritage. Almond-scented makroudh cookies, flower-water infused zlabia doughnuts, and orange blossom-perfumed baklava layered with pistachios or walnuts beckon from every patisserie. Cafe M'Rabet in Tunis whips up superb patisseries in artistic shapes and designs. Indulge in a creamy, cinnamon-laced corne de gazelle horn pastry, or try the fig rolls made with fresh fruit. For a quintessential Parisian vibe, sit at one of Le Notre's sidewalk tables, order a cappuccino, and let the people-watching commence.
Of course, no discussion of cuisine is complete without mentioning Tunisia's aromatic array of mint teas. Steeped black tea sweetened with fresh mint and pine nuts tastes best sipped slowly in one of the Old City's courtyard cafes, perhaps the Cafe Sidi Chabaane in Sfax. Don't rush the ritual of pouring from high above to swirl the sugar - sip and savor this classic refreshment. Let the sights and sounds of Tunisia soak in as the hot, sugary tea soothes your throat.
Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider's Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia's History and Culture in a Weekend - Handicrafts of the Medina: Shopping for Souvenirs
The winding covered alleyways of Tunisia's ancient medinas tempt travelers with a treasure trove of traditional handicrafts. From delicate pottery to richly hued textiles, these skillfully wrought goods make meaningful mementos of a journey through this crossroads of cultures.
In Tunis, be sure to visit Souk El Attarine, the spice and perfume market redolent with the scents of cumin, turmeric and jasmine. Stalls overflow withTunisia's famed green olive soaps, ranging from natural to vividly colored and scented with geranium or orange blossom. For the ultimate souvenir, pick up a few blocks of the traditional Savon de Grasse, laboriously made from 72 percent olive oil. This moisturizing soap has been produced in Tunisia since the 10th century.
Nearby Souk El Kmach offers antiques and jewelry, including chunky amber necklaces and bracelets of engraved silver filigree. Souk El Blat peddles handicrafts like brilliantly hued ceramics, hand-loomed tunics, and traditional chechia hats topping the heads of robed men. After browsing, restore your energy with mint tea and a plate of brik at Café Sidi Chabaane overlooking the Zaytuna Mosque.
In Sfax, the maze-like souks reward patient exploration. Hunt for one-of-a-kind finds like vintage hooded burnouses, rough woolen blankets woven by nomads, and ceramics painted in Berber motifs. The Souk des Tapis spills over with plush hand-knotted rugs in geometric Tuareg designs.
For contemporary takes on traditional handicrafts, peek into the chic boutiques lining the French Quarter’s Rue Habib Bourguiba. L’Artisanerie sells modern ceramic tableware alongside antique tiles and platters from the 7th century. Nawras Creations fashions Berber-inspired jewelry from hammered silver, while Olivkoz Company produces artisanal olive wood objets d’art.
Tabarka delights with its handicrafts market, where Berber tribeswomen hawk hand-embroidered goods under bright awnings. Search for prized findslike purple Tunisian pottery or vibrantly striped textiles woven on manual looms. Bargain hard but fairly – skilled artisans depend on these sales.
Wherever you shop, politely ask before photos are taken, and buy directly from the maker when possible. For exquisite ceramics, seek out the studio of famed potter Khaled Ben Slimane just outside Tabarka. Watch Khaled throw pots on his wheel before selecting a piece painted with traditional Arabic calligraphy and geometric designs.
Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider's Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia's History and Culture in a Weekend - Spectacular Sunsets: Places to Catch Dusk
After a day uncovering Tunisia’s cultural treasures, few moments surpass watching the sun sink into the sea or desert from a panoramic viewpoint. As the fading light casts a golden glow over ancient ruins, busy medinas, and arid landscapes, you’ll understand why this north African nation captivates so many travelers.
Perched on the cliffs above the Gulf of Tunis, the whitewashed village of Sidi Bou Said treats visitors to resplendent sunset viewing. Find a table at the Cliff Cafe, order a mint tea, and soak in the spectacle exploding over the Bay of Tunis. Watch the fading rays set the brilliant blue domes of the Sidi Bou Said mosque ablaze. Then stroll down the steep cobblestone lanes past bougainvillea-draped doorways glowing in the soft dusk.
In Tunis, make your way up to the hilltop basilica Notre Dame d'Afrique as the afternoon winds down. This neo-Byzantine church’s soaring dome and sea-facing location lend front row seats to nightfall. Arrive early to admire the intricate interior mosaics before settling on the steps to observe the sunset. On clear days, you can even make out the tip of Cap Bon across the gulf.
For a memorable desert sunset, book an overnight camel safari into the Sahara. After a day bouncing atop your humped steed, you’ll arrive at a spartan berber camp. Climb the towering dunes and watch the setting sun stain the undulating sands intense orange and crimson. Shadows gradually darken the rocky outcrops and reg (stony plains) as a profound silence descends. Sleep out under the dizzying canopy of stars blanketing the ink-black sky.
In Tozeur, an oasis town on the edge of the Sahara, scale the crumbling 14th-century Ouled el-Hadef fortification and see the sun sink behind waving palms. The view over the surrounding oases and salt lakes is especially resplendent at dusk. For dinner with a side of sunset, dine on the terrace of Dar Cherait Museum’s excellent restaurant, then sip a nightcap on their rooftop bar.
Along the coast, Sousse’s timeworn medina combines epic sunsets with seaside splendor. Scale the stone steps to the crenellated Borj El Kebir watchtower and take in vistas stretching to the Monastir marina. The fiery orb seems to melt slowly into the Mediterranean, setting sailboats silhouetted against the crimson waters ablaze.
Roman Ruins and Rustic villages: An Insider's Guide to Exploring Northern Tunisia's History and Culture in a Weekend - Day Trips from Tunis: Easy Excursions
With millennia of history and vibrant cultural traditions, Tunisia offers much to explore beyond its bustling capital. Luckily for travelers short on time, excellent day trip options from Tunis provide a tantalizing taste of what this diverse North African nation has to offer. These easy excursions make medieval medinas, striking salt lakes, and evocative historic sites readily accessible.
Just an hour south of Tunis by train, Sousse's maze-like old city rewards wanderers with imposing ramparts, turquoise-tiled mosques, and the intriguing Museum Dar Essid. Climb the stairs of the Kasbah for sweeping views over the fortified medina, where maze-like souks tempt with traditional handicrafts. The nearby Ribat fortress-monastery provides a glimpse into medieval Islamic architecture and history. Afterward, unwind on Sousse's miles of sandy beaches or tour the olive groves and fruit orchards of the surrounding Sahel region.
Nature lovers shouldn't miss a day trip to Ichkeul National Park, a world heritage wetland that provides critical habitat for over 200 bird species. Wading birds stalk the marshes, ducks glide across glassy lakes, and pink flamingoes sweep the skies in colorful formations. Trekking through the park reveals beautiful vistas of the mountain-ringed Ichkeul Lake and surrounding meadows blanketed in wildflowers during spring. Look for rare species like the white stork and Eurasian spoonbill. The visitor center offers bike rentals for further exploration.
About 90 minutes from Tunis, the picture-perfect coastal town of Kelibia seduces with its whitewashed houses clinging to a rocky peninsula. After exploring the small but charming medina, spend the afternoon lazing on the golden sands of Plage de Kelibia. For breathtaking sea views, take the cliffside hiking path to the Genoese fortress. Reward your efforts with a seafood feast along the waterfront, where fresh octopus, red mullet, and other catches headline restaurant menus.
No Tunisian sightseeing tour is complete without a visit to Carthage, the great port city of antiquity. Just 15 minutes north of Tunis, this vast archaeological site holds the ruins of towering Roman baths, temples, and theaters with sweeping Mediterranean vistas. Wander the odeon's mosaic-decked corridors for insights into everyday life 2,000 years ago. The hilltop Antonine Baths capture the Romans' fondness for indulgent bathing rituals. Don't skip the Punic ports and the iconic Tophet funerary stelae amid the tumbled columns and weather-worn structures.