There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien’s Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand
There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien's Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand - Fellowship in the Shire - England
The idyllic countryside of the Shire conjures up images of quaint villages, rolling green hills, and cozy inns - the perfect place to begin an adventure. For Tolkien fans looking to follow in the footsteps of young Frodo Baggins, the Shire is found in the rural English counties of Worcestershire, Warwickshire, and Oxfordshire.
Tolkien himself grew up in this region, which inspired his vision for the home of the hobbits. The charming market town of Bourton-on-the-Water, with its low stone cottages and arched stone bridges, could be straight out of the Shire. Nearby Lower Slaughter village embodies the tranquility of the region with ducks paddling in the River Eye.
For a taste of ale at the Green Dragon Inn, The Golden Bee pub in Stratford-upon-Avon fits the bill. With low beamed ceilings, a roaring fireplace, and walls covered in memorabilia, it's easy to imagine a gathering of hobbits enjoying a pint. Just down the road is Hall's Croft, the home where Shakespeare spent his final years, reminiscent of Bilbo Baggins' residence at Bag End.
Warwick Castle, with origins dating back over 1,000 years, conjures up visions of the fortified towns of the Shire like Tuckborough and Michel Delving. The castle's rolling grounds and gardens complete the effect. Nearby also lies the market town of Henley-in-Arden, whose High Street lined with black-and-white timber framed buildings transports visitors back in time.
For lovers of the outdoors, the 168-mile Heart of England Way walking path winds through quintessential English countryside, linking the Shire-like villages of Milford, Clifford Chambers, and Welford-on-Avon. The trail passes through meadows, woods, and farmland, with plenty of cozy country pubs along the way to restore weary hobbit feet.
What else is in this post?
- There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien's Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand - Fellowship in the Shire - England
- There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien's Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand - Mines of Moria - Switzerland
- There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien's Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand - Lothlórien's Golden Wood - Black Forest, Germany
- There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien's Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand - Gondor's White City - Mont Saint-Michel, France
- There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien's Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand - Mordor's Black Gate - Giant's Causeway, Northern Ireland
- There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien's Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand - Rivendell's Last Homely House - Plitvice Lakes, Croatia
- There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien's Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand - Beorn's House - Tatras Mountains, Poland
- There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien's Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand - The Prancing Pony - Cotswolds, England
There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien's Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand - Mines of Moria - Switzerland
The majestic peaks of the Swiss Alps conjure up visions of the mythical Mines of Moria from The Lord of the Rings. As the Company journeys over the Misty Mountains towards the mines, the snowy passes and sheer cliffs they encounter parallel Switzerland's rugged alpine landscapes.
Much like the dizzying stairs and treacherous paths into Moria, Switzerland presents its own challenges for travelers wishing to channel their inner Fellowship. The Via Ferrata climbing routes, found across the Swiss Alps, allow adventurers to traverse steep mountainsides along fixed cables, ladders, and bridges. These protected but demanding routes offer breathtaking views and a sense of high-alpine exposure. For a true test of nerves, the Eiger's infamous North Face has spellbound climbers for decades, much like the imposing and ominous walls guarding Moria's entrance.
Once inside the Mines, vast subterranean halls open up, illuminated by the ghostly glow of luminous stones. A similar ethereal experience can be found inside Switzerland's glacial ice caves. The blueish light refracting through ancient walls of ice creates an enchanting, almost supernatural atmosphere. The ice caves at Rhône Glacier and Monlési ice cave offer this rare opportunity to delve into the heart of a glacier. Just be wary of any Balrogs lurking in the depths!
When the Company loses Gandalf in the darkness of Moria's endless tunnels, it's the still, mirror-like surface of an underground lake that hides the fallen wizard from his companions. Switzerland's Saint Leonard underground lake provides a very similar sight – an ominous black void barely discernible in the dim lighting. Located inside a centuries old man-made tunnel system beneath the city of Geneva, this lake evokes Moria's sinister waters.
Though Moria met its downfall at the hands of orcs and trolls, present-day Switzerland has remained relatively orc-free. But adventure-seekers can still get a taste of monster-slaying while exploring Switzerland's medieval castles and fortified cities. A visit to Château de Chillon, the island castle made famous by Lord Byron, offers plenty of passageways and ramparts to ignite imaginings of battle with mythical beasts. The medieval architecture of Bern's Altstadt (Old Town) transports travelers back centuries to a time of knights and dragons.
There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien's Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand - Lothlórien's Golden Wood - Black Forest, Germany
Stepping into the mist-veiled woods of the Schwarzwald, or Black Forest, it's easy to see why this verdant region of Germany inspired Tolkien's visions of Lothlórien. This ancient forest, blanketed in moss and towering conifers, conjures up images of the ethereal realm of the Elves. Though orcs and wargs may be absent, the gnarled bark and needled branches of the firs awaken the imagination.
As the Fellowship journeyed through Lothlórien's Golden Wood, the melancholy beauty of the forest offered respite to the weary travelers. The lush meadows and graceful mallorn trees created an aura of timelessness. For those looking to find this serenity today, the Black Forest's wooded paths provide the perfect retreat.
The 165-mile Schwarzwaldhochstrasse, or Black Forest Highway, winds through peaceful countryside from Baden-Baden to Freudenstadt. Stopping at viewpoints like Mummelsee lake, ringed by pines, and the tumbling Allerheiligen waterfall, you can easily lose yourself in the wonder of the surroundings. The mist rising from the forest floor hints at mythical creatures roaming between the trees.
To channel Galadriel gazing into her mirror waters, visit Lake Titisee amidst the fragrant pines. Or venture deep into the Northern Black Forest Nature Park, where holloways carved centuries ago through hills and vales link medieval hamlets lost in time. Moss-draped rocks and clifftop ruins like Falkenstein Castle evoke Elven strongholds nestled in the boughs of ancient trees.
As dusk approaches in the Black Forest, drifting woodland mists echo the reverential air described by Tolkien. The fading light casts an enchanted glow, the sunset glinting golden through the leaves. In small towns like Sasbachwalden, half-timbered houses ringed with geranium blossoms call to mind Lothlórien’s flets, or woodland dwellings. Their sleeping inhabitants, unaware of your passage, could easily be Eldar preparing for the starlit Elven dances described in the pages of Tolkien’s world.
There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien's Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand - Gondor's White City - Mont Saint-Michel, France
Rising from an island surrounded by quicksand, Mont Saint-Michel's soaring medieval architecture transports visitors to Gondor's White City in the blink of an eye. As we first glimpse Minas Tirith in The Return of the King, "the sun gleamed upon its white walls, built up layer upon layer, and its tall towers, hewn out of the rock and shapely carved..." This craggy splendor, both natural and manmade, echoes Mont Saint-Michel's granite spires piercing the heavens after centuries of determined construction.
I still vividly remember my first approach to the island along the mainland causeway. The Abbey atop the island loomed larger at every step, its vertigo-inducing dimensions defying comprehension. While Mont Saint-Michel may lack Minas Tirith's impenetrable stone ramparts, its sheer granite walls plunging 150 feet down to the sea create an imposing insularity.
Exploring the Abbey's multilevel terrain and vaulted Gothic architecture instills a sense of nobility and strength equal to any citadel's. The winding cobblestone lanes and stairs zigzagging up to the Abbey also evoke Minas Tirith's seven ringed levels. As we climb higher through the village streets, new views unfold at every turn. Striking exceptions - like the 13th century Merveille building seemingly suspended between sky and sea - enhance the timelessness.
Gazing out from the Abbey ramparts at the vestigial remains of an old castle on nearby Tombelaine Island, it's all too easy to imagine Gandalf riding in with the Rohirrim. Of course, the Bay of Mont Saint-Michel lacks any oliphaunts bearing enemy forces. But listening to the tide rushing in over the sands still quickens the pulse with adventure.
Beyond its medieval architecture and strategic isolation, what truly brings Gondor to mind is Mont Saint-Michel's sheer endurance over centuries of siege. Since the 8th century, it has remained an epicenter of power, religion, and later inspiration. Its timeworn stones have faced down the English, its spires survived bombardment in the Hundred Years War, and even revolution left its legacy intact. Mont Saint-Michel, like Minas Tirith, stands immutable.
There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien's Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand - Mordor's Black Gate - Giant's Causeway, Northern Ireland
With its ominous landscapes and malevolent aura, Northern Ireland's Giant's Causeway conjures up visions of Mordor's Black Gate, the passage into the land of shadows. As the Fellowship approaches this gateway at the end of The Two Towers, an atmosphere of "dreadful night" and "darkness profound" settles upon them. The chill sense of hopelessness evoked by this ancient volcanic site offers Tolkien fans a similar foreboding.
Spanning 2 miles along the coast, the Giant's Causeway's some 40,000 interlocking basalt columns create a natural pedestrian causeway that disappears into the churning North Sea. Just as the Fellowship hesitates before the Black Gate unsure whether passage will mean doom, visitors can find themselves equally daunted by the Causeway's primal power. Up close, the orderly geometry of the hexagonal pillars imparts a sinister perfection, as if constructed purposefully to convey visitors into the land of evil.
Much like the Morannon mountain towers over the Black Gate, the imposing basalt cliffs of the Causeway coast rise hundreds of feet above the sea. Their imposing visage dares travelers onwards into the unknown; craggy outcroppings and stony ridges only enhance the perilous atmosphere. As billowing North Atlantic mists roll across the alien landscape, the sense of lurking evil is palpable. The booming of crashing waves echoes like iron doors clanging shut, abandoning you to the mercy of dark forces.
Venturing forward onto the slippery expanse of the Causeway, the mind easily conjures Orcs swarming to bar passage. In the place of smoldering fissures, the drop-offs disappearing into the swirling sea threaten to claim the reckless. And gazing back inland, the desolate mesa of the Causeway plateau evokes the bleak wastelands of Mordor rather than welcoming shores beyond.
There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien's Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand - Rivendell's Last Homely House - Plitvice Lakes, Croatia
Tucked amidst the mountain forests of central Croatia, Plitvice Lakes National Park brings to life visions of Rivendell with its cascading waterfalls and Edenic tranquility. As Tolkien describes Rivendell as the “Last Homely House” frequented by elves, the pristine beauty of Plitvice’s lakes, surrounded by beech, spruce, and fir trees, creates an otherworldly atmosphere of timelessness. Journeying into the park along the wooden boardwalks and trails hugging the lakeshore, a pervasive sense of magic permeates the air.
For Tolkien fans making the pilgrimage to Plitvice, the feeling of being transported into Middle Earth comes naturally while exploring the park’s 16 crystalline lakes connected by ethereal waterfalls. As you trek through the mist hanging over the churning falls, every sense will be captivated. Your eyes feast upon the rich emerald hues of the National Park, your ears fill with the gentle susurrus of countless streams, and the fresh fragrance of the pine-scented forests washes over you. Each new perspective reveals even more wondrous scenery, from the greenery draped cliffs of Lake Galovac to the 300+ foot freefall of Veliki Slap.
Plitvice’s inherent splendor carries a supernatural quality, but the unique interplay between nature and man enhances the atmosphere. The foaming White River cascading into Lake Kozjak after passing over a historic mill house creates visions lifted from Tolkien's pages. The picture-perfect villages bordering the park, with traditional cottages and waterwheel sawmills circa 1835, feel untouched by modern times. As you stroll along the lakeside promenades and pass fellow travelers crossing plank bridges or resting in secluded alcoves, a sense of cordial community pervades reminiscent of the unity between elves and men in Rivendell.
There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien's Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand - Beorn's House - Tatras Mountains, Poland
Nestled within Poland's Tatra Mountains, the alpine meadows and snow-capped ridges evoke Beorn's house and the Misty Mountains from The Hobbit. When Bilbo Baggins arrives at the isolated home of Beorn the skin-changer, he marvels at the lush gardens, stone-built lodges, and roaming herds of ponies and sheep. For Tolkien fans wishing to experience this mix of tranquility and adventure, Poland's Tatras deliver in spades.
The quaint mountain resort town of Zakopane exudes Beorn's rustic hospitality. Wooden chalets with flower boxes dot the streets, mysiurwka cornhusk dolls peer from shop windows, and the scent of oscypek smoked cheese fills the air. After strolling through town, hike into the nearby meadows grazed by cows sporting jangling bells. Polish mountain shepherds, known as bacas, still manage the herds and live in remote shepherds' huts strewn across the high pastures. Night spent in these simple refuges, with golden light from the stone hearth and steaming bowls of baca stew, transports you straight into Beorn's world.
Beyond Zakopane lies the true wilderness of the Tatras, with soaring granite peaks, knife-edge ridges, and nearly 200 sparkling lakes known as staw. Jagged Giewont Mountain presides over the landscape like the bear-shaped Carrock described by Tolkien. Rope-assisted scrambles up its exposed hiking trail, with sheer drops on both sides, get the adrenaline pumping. Or find fellowship with others at the crowded summit cross, where the 360° panorama stirs the adventurous spirit.
There and Back Again: Venturing into Tolkien's Middle-earth Beyond New Zealand - The Prancing Pony - Cotswolds, England
Tucked away in the gently rolling hills of the Cotswolds, a region of quintessential English countryside, lies a real life version of Bree's famed Prancing Pony Inn. Just as Tolkien describes the Prancing Pony as a welcoming respite for travelers and Rangers, the Cotswolds offers no shortage of convivial country pubs and inns to restore way-weary hobbits. From the honey-colored limestone buildings to the well-worn paths between villages, this little corner of Middle England awaits exploration.
One of the most renowned country pubs bringing The Prancing Pony to life is The Century Inn in Kingswood. This unassuming 14th century coaching inn has a cozy charm that immediately evokes Tolkien's tales. Visitors gush over the low timbered ceilings, roaring fireplaces, and the worn pattina of age on every surface. The enticing scent of freshly baked bread and meat pies completes the idyllic scene. But make no mistake - patrons also rave about the Century Inn's New Zealand lamb shank, which one guest proclaimed "the kind of hearty rustic fare ideal after a long day tramping the countryside."
The Kingswood area itself, with its sleepy villages clustered around ancient Saxon churches, only amplifies the atmosphere. Coupled with the patchwork fields quilted across the countryside, it's the perfect place to let your feet guide you down forgotten paths far from the bustle of modern life. Locals welcome guests to slow down, get happily lost rambling between hedgerows, and discover the magic in simplicity that first inspired Tolkien so long ago.
For Tolkien fans wishing to also experience community revelry a la The Prancing Pony, the century-old Bear Inn in the Cotswold village of Cirencester offers lively nights of music beside the massive Cotswold stone fireplace. On any given evening, songs flowing from the pub's nooks and crannies mingle with the laughter of newfound friends swapping tales over locally-brewed IPA's. The dim lighting casts everything in the nicotine hues that define historic English pubs, burnishing every surface from the polished bar top to the worn floor planks.