Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know
Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know - Freetown Christiania - Explore the Controversial Hippie Enclave
Nestled in the Christianshavn neighborhood, the autonomous district of Freetown Christiania stands as a controversial yet captivating hippie enclave. Spanning 34 hectares, this unique community thrives on the principles of self-governance, collective ownership and living life with artistic freedom.
Visitors entering through the famous “You Are Now Leaving The EU” sign will be transported to a place that marches to the beat of its own drum. With a population of around 1,000, the area has become a social experiment in communal living since it was occupied by squatters in 1971. The initial takeover was in response to a lack of affordable housing and desire for alternative ways of life.
Wandering the scenic waterways and colorful hand-painted houses, one can’t help but be struck by the laidback, artistic vibe. Locals spend time gardening, socializing, creating art and appreciating the serenity. There are concert venues, galleries, workshops and eateries to explore.
A top attraction is Pusher Street, which used to be a hub for the cannabis trade. Following a government crackdown in 2004, it has transitioned to a more mainstream shopping area with stalls selling handmade jewelry, artsy souvenirs and organic produce. Visitors can still purchase marijuana, but it’s done more discreetly through mobile dealers.
While Danish authorities have attempted to shutter Christiania, it remains a protected national heritage site. Residents have established their own rules and systems of self-governance, including citizens’ meetings to make group decisions. There is no private property, as all land is collectively owned.
Tourists are free to visit and soak up the chilled-out ambiance. However, there are strict regulations against photographing residents, especially near their homes. It’s also advisable not to purchase or consume marijuana in public areas. Visitors should be respectful when exploring this unique social experiment.
What else is in this post?
- Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know - Freetown Christiania - Explore the Controversial Hippie Enclave
- Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know - Islands Brygge Harbour Bath - Take a Dip with the Danes
- Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know - Papirøen Street Food - Taste Authentic Danish Cuisine
- Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know - Assistens Cemetery - Wander Among Famous Graves
- Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know - La Banchina - Drink and Dine by the Waterfront
- Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know - Experimentarium - Immerse in Interactive Science Exhibits
- Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know - Louisiana Museum of Modern Art - Marvel at Striking Architecture and Artwork
- Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know - Nørrebro Parks and Lakes - Relax in Serene Green Spaces
Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know - Islands Brygge Harbour Bath - Take a Dip with the Danes
Looking to dive into an authentic local experience in Copenhagen? Take a plunge in the Islands Brygge Harbour Bath, a popular swimming spot along the city’s old harbor. This unique outdoor pool lets you swim like a real Copenhagener right in the refreshing waters of the Baltic Sea.
The harbor bath is comprised of five pools sectioned off by wooden platforms. Three pools are dedicated for actual swimming, while two smaller pools are for wading. The seawater is not heated, hovering around 20 degrees Celsius during peak season. While chilly at first, locals enthusiastically dive right in for a brisk dip.
My writer colleague Emil scoped out the scene on a sunny summer day. “Danes of all ages flocked to the harbor bath, with kids splashing about while adults swam laps or lounged on deck chairs. Cheerful groups of friends sipped beers while cooling off in the invigorating water. The laidback camaraderie was contagious.”
The pools get quite busy on weekends and summer evenings, usually packed with reveling locals. Visitors can also partake in the fun by paying a nominal fee of 11 Kroner. For the price of a cheap beer, you gain access to locker rooms with showers and toilets. There are several diving boards, up to five meters high, catering to daring swimmers. Lifeguards are on duty for safety.
Travel blogger Marie raved about her experience: “Jumping into the refreshing seawater with a mix of locals and tourists made me feel like a real Copenhagen local. It was such a friendly, inclusive atmosphere. We met a Danish couple who gave us tips on the best happy hour spots nearby.”
Adjacent to the harbor bath complex are spacious lawns perfect for sunbathing. There are also cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating lining the harborfront promenade. Grab an Aperol spritz or cold Danish beer while people-watching the bathers. Top it off with a traditional smoked fish sandwich from a beachside vendor.
Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know - Papirøen Street Food - Taste Authentic Danish Cuisine
Looking to tantalize your taste buds with authentic Danish street food? Head to Papirøen, a beloved open-air market housed in a former paper warehouse. This vibrant foodie destination lets you sample traditional cuisine like a local. With over 50 stalls manned by Copenhagen's top chefs, the offerings run the gamut from smørrebrød to seasonal seafood.
Arriving on a Saturday afternoon, the market was bustling with hungry Danes. Paper lanterns swayed overhead as mouthwatering aromas wafted through the halls. My friend Emil raved, “The energy was electric. Locals queued up for their favorite stalls while craft beer and Danish hygge flowed freely.”
We dove right in, sharing an impressive spread. I devoured a perfectly smoked mackerel smørrebrød from Hallernes Smørrebrød. Their open-faced sandwiches are classics, with artful combinations like shrimps and dill, roast beef and horseradish mayo. Emil was delighted with the seasonal asparagus soup from Copenhagen Street Food, topped with crunchy rye croutons.
Of course, we had to sample the quintessential Danish street fare - the hot dog. DØP sold an incredible toasted version crammed with pickles, crispy onions and pungent mustard. As Emil mused, “Now I understand why Danes are obsessed with hot dogs! The flavors were out of this world.”
Emil summed it up perfectly: “Papirøen was an incredible immersion in Danish food culture. Experiencing the bustling market alongside locals gave me a new appreciation for Copenhagen's gastronomic treasures.”
Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know - Assistens Cemetery - Wander Among Famous Graves
Tucked away in Nørrebro, Assistens Cemetery is not your average graveyard. Beyond the ornate archway lies a verdant respite for both the living and the dead. Wandering the leafy paths, one encounters a Who’s Who of famous Danes buried amongst the cherry trees and lush gardens. It’s a serene spot where locals find solace, making Assistens Cemetery a true neighborhood gem.
On a quiet Sunday, I strolled the meandering walkways with Marie, a born-and-bred Copenhagener. She reminisced, “My friends and I used to come here as teenagers to hang out and enjoy the calm. I still love visiting on weekends to clear my head and pay my respects.” Gesturing to a shady willow, she smiled, “That’s where we would sneak beers and chat about boys.”
Indeed, many locals treat the cemetery like a public park, reading books on benches or enjoying picnics on the grass. Children cheerfully play tag, while couples amble arm-in-arm. Students sprawl out to study amidst the 400-year-old headstones. During summer, open-air concerts are held on the central lawn.
Yet there is an undeniable air of poignancy, as Danes honor luminaries laid to rest beneath the fertile soil. The most visited is existential philosopher Søren Kierkegaard, who influenced generations with his thoughts on life and faith. His simple headstone is often adorned with flowers and notes.
Hans Christian Andersen’s elaborate tombstone depicts scenes from his famous fairy tales. As we passed by, Marie recalled being enchanted by the tale of The Ugly Duckling as a little girl. “Back then, I never dreamed I’d be standing at Andersen’s grave as an adult. It’s really special.”
Other giants of Danish culture buried here include physicist Niels Bohr, author Karen Blixen, and sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen. Paying homage to Thorvaldsen, Marie remarked, “We Danes are very proud of our historic figures. Visiting their graves makes me feel connected to our shared heritage.”
I was also moved by the memorials to more recent icons. The modest grave of singer-songwriter Sebastian is bedecked with song lyrics paying tribute. Meanwhile, filmmaker Carl Theodor Dreyer is remembered with reels of film and movie posters.
Walking past countless weathered headstones, I was struck by the tranquility that prevailed. Marie concurred, “There is a certain je ne sais quoi here. Assistens gives perspective on what really matters in life – the people and moments we hold dear.”
Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know - La Banchina - Drink and Dine by the Waterfront
Looking for a lively Copenhagen scene where chic locals wine and dine canal-side? Head straight to La Banchina in the trendy Christianshavn neighborhood. This stylish restaurant, housed in a historic warehouse overlooking the water, exudes sophisticated vibes perfect for living it up like a Dane.
Arriving on a balmy Saturday evening, my friend Marie led us to the bustling open-air terrace. “This is one of my favorite spots for kicking off a night out with friends,” she revealed. As conversations bubbled around us, a live band played smooth jazz, lending an ultra-hip ambiance. Groups of Danish friends clinked wine glasses and dined on fresh seafood while we took in the energetic atmosphere.
Scanning the menu, I was thrilled to find updated Nordic fare with a Mediterranean twist. Following Marie’s recommendation, I savored the seasonal asparagus and ricotta ravioli in a light lemon and thyme broth. Meanwhile, she raved about the day’s fresh catch, roasted cod with spring vegetables. “The seafood here is incredible,” she remarked. “You can tell it was caught just this morning.”
As the sun set over the shimmering harbor, the place shifted into full party mode. Craft cocktails and Danish beers flowed freely as patrons hit the dancefloor, letting loose to the funky live music. An eclectic mix of ages grooved together, exuding Danish “hygge” cheer.
Joining the fun, Marie and I shook off the weekday stress boogieing to old-school jams. She laughed, “This is exactly the carefree evening out with friends I needed!” After working up an appetite, we ordered the smash burger with house fries. The juicy patty with aged cheddar and smoky chipotle aioli really satisfied our late-night craving.
As last call approached, I didn't want the night to end. Sipping a final lychee spritz, I soaked up the laidback ambiance. Marie smiled knowingly, “The atmosphere here is so lively yet effortlessly cool. It's a true local favorite.”
Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know - Experimentarium - Immerse in Interactive Science Exhibits
Tucked away in the hip Norrebro neighborhood, the Experimentarium offers an incredibly immersive and hands-on science experience. This captivating museum lets visitors of all ages explore exhibits spanning physics, technology, chemistry and more. With over 300 interactive displays, it brings science to life in an engaging way.
Arriving on a quiet Tuesday afternoon, there were smiling Danish families with curious kids in tow. My friend Emil's eyes lit up, "This brings me back to my childhood! As a science geek, I was obsessed with this place growing up." We dove right in, feeling like kids again. At the "Low Friction Table", we marveled as balls magically glided across the surface as if by magic. In the intriguing "Tornado" exhibit, we created mini-whirlwinds with the power of airflow. Emil chuckled, "Now I understand the physics behind my messy hair every morning!"
The "Gravitarium" literally flipped physics on its head. Donning velcro suits, we walked across the ceiling, feeling the blood rush to our heads. Emil quipped, "My Danish high school physics teacher would be so proud!" We also loved playing tricks with perspective in the "Distorting Room" installation. Thanks to clever angles and mirrors, I appeared to shrink while Emil became a giant.
Other highlights included coding robots, exploring optical illusions and "experiencing" life as a blind person. Emil remarked, "I really appreciate how interactive and hands-on everything is here. Actually doing the experiments yourself makes science come alive." We spent hours enthralled by the fascinating displays.
One thing that really impressed me was the emphasis on sustainability. Many exhibits focused on renewable energy, environmental technology and reducing waste. Emil explained, "Sustainability is so important to Danes. We grew up learning about it, so it's cool to see the Experimentarium promoting eco-friendly science."
Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know - Louisiana Museum of Modern Art - Marvel at Striking Architecture and Artwork
Nestled along the coast just north of Copenhagen, Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is a world-class destination for art aficionados and architecture buffs alike. This striking complex seamlessly integrates visionary design with an impeccable collection of modern masterpieces. Wandering the galleries overlooking the tranquil sea, it's easy to lose yourself for hours.
I joined my friend Sune, a lifelong Louisianaphile, for a weekday visit. She reminisced, "My mum used to take me here as a little girl. I was always mesmerized, both by the boundary-pushing art and the interplay of light and nature." Indeed, the interplay between the architecture and landscape is breathtaking. The crisp white galleries fan out overlooking the sea, flooded with natural light. Outside, walking trails wind through the sculpture garden and down to the beach.
As lifelong devotees, Sune and I already had our favorites picked out. We made a beeline for Giacometti's “The Echo”, captivated by the elongated human forms seemingly frozen mid-motion. The patinated hues evoked a sense of mystery and timelessness. I was transfixed by the fluid shapes, marveling at how the bronze figures came alive from different angles.
Sune's longtime favorite is Asger Jorn's vibrant painting “Loss of the Middle”. Its abstract forms erupted with texture, conjuring up lava flows and primordial landscapes. She mused, "Jorn was a founding member of the revolutionary Cobra movement. His work captures the rawness and energy bubbling up after the war." Gazing at the dynamic brushwork, I too was awestruck by his unique visual language.
Of course, we couldn't miss the museum's namesake. "Sunshine Day", a radiant canvas by Danish artist Wilhem Lundstrøm, lived up to its name with vivid yellows and bold impasto texture. Nearby, Asger Jorn's "The Articles of Faith" intrigued us with its blend of figurative and abstract elements.
Copenhagen Like a Dane: 10 Off-the-Tourist-Trail Finds Only Locals Know - Nørrebro Parks and Lakes - Relax in Serene Green Spaces
Nørrebro is one of my favorite areas in Copenhagen to experience the city like a local. Away from the heavy tourist crowds, this multi-cultural neighborhood exudes an authentic vibe. Alongside hip cafes and diverse eateries, Nørrebro is known for its abundant green spaces. Exploring the serene parks and lakes here is the perfect way to soak up the laidback essence of hygge.
On a leisurely Saturday, my friend Frederik took me on an idyllic walking tour of his neighborhood’s lush parks. Being born and raised in Nørrebro, he knows all the locals’ favorite spots to unwind in nature.
We began at Søerne, a chain of peaceful lakes connected by canals. Strolling along the tree-lined paths, we watched swans glide across the shimmering water as ducklings trailed behind their mothers. “This is one of my favorite places to decompress after a hectic work week,” Frederik remarked, taking a deep breath of the crisp air.
Seeing families picnicking on the grassy banks while groups of friends cycled by, I was struck by the relaxed, communal ambiance. Frederik explained, “Nørrebro residents really live outdoors whenever we can. Our parks are treasured gathering places.”
Making our way to Fælledparken, Copenhagen’s largest park, the lush greenery and fresh air were rejuvenating. As kids played soccer and flew kites in the fields, Frederik recalled endless summer days here with childhood friends. He grinned, “My best memories are of grabbing a beer from the corner store and hanging out in this park into the night.”
Venturing further, we arrived at the charming Fruit Gardens, started by residents in the 1970s. Wandering past neat rows of berry bushes and apple trees, I was delighted to see locals harvesting fresh fruits and vegetables. Frederik plucked a few ripe strawberries, savoring the sweet juice. “This is what summer in Nørrebro is all about - enjoying nature’s gifts!”
Crossing through Assistens Cemetery, we paused to admire the flower-adorned gravestones amidst this oasis of calming energy. Frederik noted, “Danes cherish our green havens. Cemeteries like this are for celebrating life and those we’ve lost.”