Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler! An Insider’s Guide to the Soul and Passion of New Orleans
Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler! An Insider's Guide to the Soul and Passion of New Orleans - Explore the French Quarter's Captivating History
Step back in time and immerse yourself in the fascinating history of New Orleans' iconic French Quarter. This neighborhood oozes old-world charm with its cobblestone streets, iron balconies, and 18th century architecture. As you wander past the brightly-colored buildings, you can almost hear the clip-clop of horses' hooves and the swish of crinoline dresses from centuries past.
The French Quarter earned its name when France founded New Orleans in 1718. Back then it was home to merchants, sailors, and tradespeople of all kinds plying their wares. Walk down Chartres Street today and you'll find many of the original buildings from this era still standing. Stop into the 1850 House Museum to experience what life was like for the upper middle class over 150 years ago.
Of course, no discussion of the French Quarter would be complete without mentioning Bourbon Street. This famous thoroughfare comes alive at night with live jazz pouring onto the streets from every bar and club. During the day, you can still feel the energy as you explore. Be sure to stop at Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop Bar, which dates back to the 1770s and is one of the oldest buildings in the country.
History buffs will also appreciate Jackson Square, the longtime heart of the French Quarter. Here you'll find St. Louis Cathedral, the striking centerpiece of the square. Dating from 1794, it's one of the oldest cathedrals in the country. The square is also home to a statue of Andrew Jackson on horseback, commemorating the general's victory at the Battle of New Orleans in 1815.
While the French Quarter today bustles with tourists and revelers, it's sobering to remember its difficult history of slavery, segregation and yellow fever epidemics. The New Orleans African American Museum tell these stories well, with exhibits on voodoo queen Marie Laveau and Homer Plessy of the landmark Plessy vs. Ferguson court case.
What else is in this post?
- Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler! An Insider's Guide to the Soul and Passion of New Orleans - Explore the French Quarter's Captivating History
- Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler! An Insider's Guide to the Soul and Passion of New Orleans - Indulge in Cajun and Creole Cuisine
- Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler! An Insider's Guide to the Soul and Passion of New Orleans - Enjoy Live Jazz and Blues Music
- Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler! An Insider's Guide to the Soul and Passion of New Orleans - Wander Through Gorgeous Garden District Homes
- Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler! An Insider's Guide to the Soul and Passion of New Orleans - Ride the Streetcars for a Classic NOLA Experience
- Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler! An Insider's Guide to the Soul and Passion of New Orleans - Tour the City's Famous Above-Ground Cemeteries
- Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler! An Insider's Guide to the Soul and Passion of New Orleans - Immerse Yourself in Voodoo and Local Traditions
Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler! An Insider's Guide to the Soul and Passion of New Orleans - Indulge in Cajun and Creole Cuisine
No trip to New Orleans is complete without indulging in the city's famous Cajun and Creole cuisines. These distinct styles of cooking are woven into the fabric of NOLA and experiencing them allows you to truly understand the culture and character of the city.
Cajun cuisine originated in the bayous and prairies of Southwest Louisiana, where French-speaking Acadians settled after being expelled from Canada in the 18th century. Rustic dishes like gumbo, jambalaya and étouffée all have their roots in Cajun cooking, which traditionally uses locally-sourced ingredients like rice, shellfish, pork sausage, onions and peppers. Expect hearty portions and robust, deeply satisfying flavors.
Creole cuisine has its origins in New Orleans itself and blends French, Spanish, African, Caribbean and Italian influences. It tends to be a bit more refined than Cajun fare, with more involved preparation methods and elaborate presentations. Signature Creole dishes include shrimp remoulade, trout amandine and bread pudding with whiskey sauce.
No matter your preference, there are countless places in New Orleans to sample Cajun and Creole specialties. Make a reservation at Galatoire’s, a legendary fine dining institution founded in 1905 that serves impeccable renditions of classics like crabmeat maison and chicken Clemenceau in an old-fashioned dining room. Arnaud's is another storied Creole restaurant that opened in 1918 and dazzles with dishes like shrimp Arnaud and bread pudding soufflé.
For a more casual experience, head to Acme Oyster House, a French Quarter favorite since 1910, and slurp down piles of raw and chargrilled oysters. Take in a jazz brunch at Court of Two Sisters, known for its decadent Creole fare like voodoo shrimp and grillades with grits. Or belly up to the bar at Luke for creative takes on Cajun standbys and modern Louisiana cooking in a laid-back setting.
Those looking for an authentic local joint should venture to Li'l Dizzy's Cafe in Tremé, which serves outstanding soul food, po' boys and gumbo in an unpretentious setting. Willie Mae's Scotch House is a must for the best fried chicken in town. And Coop's Place delivers hearty Cajun comfort food until the wee hours in an off-the-beaten-path neighborhood bar.
Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler! An Insider's Guide to the Soul and Passion of New Orleans - Enjoy Live Jazz and Blues Music
The wail of a trumpet cutting through a smoky club. The funky rhythm of a stand-up bass. The soulful cry of a blues singer empathizing with her hard times. This is the siren song of New Orleans—a city that lives and breathes jazz and blues music. More than any other place in the world, NOLA is steeped in a rich musical heritage that beckons you to listen, sway, tap your toes, and soak it all in.
Wandering down Frenchmen Street in the Marigny, you’ll drift from one packed venue to the next, following whichever band catches your ear. Snug Harbor always promises a top-notch jazz show, while the Spotted Cat is your mecca for lively Dixieland jazz bands or solo piano players crooning blues ballads into the night. Don’t miss the raucous Rebirth Brass Band belting out their funky NOLA-style brass music at the Maple Leaf on Tuesday nights.
No trip is complete without catching a soulful jazz brunch at Commander’s Palace, with a live band providing the perfect sunny Sunday soundtrack. For a night of Big Easy institutions, head to Preservation Hall in the French Quarter to experience age-old New Orleans jazz surrounded by crumbling plaster walls that ooze history. Then stroll a few blocks down to Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub on Bourbon Street, where you’ll be transported to the 1920s through virtuosic Dixieland numbers.
Beyond the usual tourist haunts, music lovers shouldn’t miss lighting-in-a-bottle shows at outdoor venues like Three Keys and Jazzy T’s. Wandering into local dives like the Half Moon or Blue Nile, you never know when you’ll stumble upon the next up-and-coming talent. Wherever you go, lose yourself in the improvisation, the call and response between musicians, and the way the music seems to pour straight from their souls.
For many musicians, New Orleans provides the perfect confluence of influences to nurture their talents. Walking home from church, kids in New Orleans would absorb the rollicking rhythm of brass bands parading down the streets. Lifting their voices in gospel choirs, they learned to emote with conviction from a young age. The city teemed with blues, zydeco, Dixieland, and ragtime—unique forms that all contributed threads to jazz's complex musical tapestry.
Generations of residents carried on this heritage, from early jazz originators like Louis Armstrong, Jelly Roll Morton, and Sidney Bechet, to later icons like Wynton Marsalis, Dr. John, and the Neville Brothers. Simply put, New Orleans is jazz music. The genre breathes new life into the city daily, as musicians remix traditions and keep creating something distinctly NOLA.
Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler! An Insider's Guide to the Soul and Passion of New Orleans - Wander Through Gorgeous Garden District Homes
Beyond the lively streets of the French Quarter lies the verdant beauty of the Garden District, home to some of the most spectacular antebellum mansions and architecture in New Orleans. Wandering under sprawling live oaks dripping with Spanish moss, you’ll feel transported back to the mid-19th century when this neighborhood first bloomed.
Magnolia-lined streets like Prytania and Chestnut Hill contain one regal Greek Revival or Italianate home after another. Marvel at the ornate ironwork balconies, grand columned porches, and meticulously-manicured gardens. Many homes have been impeccably preserved or carefully restored, giving you a window into the opulent lifestyle of the antebellum South.
Two mansions in particular stand out as crown jewels of the Garden District. First is the stately Willis-Thomas House, an 1857 Greek Revival building that now operates as a museum. Gaze in wonder at the grand curved staircase, crystal chandeliers, and lavish period furnishings. Then stroll over to the 1884 Samuel Carroll House, considered one of the finest examples of Victorian architecture in the city.
Don't forget to peek down the charming alleyways that criss-cross the neighborhood. Here you'll discover hidden garden cottages and quaint shotgun-style houses, offering a glimpse into where the 19th-century working class resided.
Many noteworthy New Orleanians called the Garden District home, including author Anne Rice, playwright Tennessee Williams, and trumpeter Nicholas Payton. See where they lived and drew inspiration from this verdant oasis amidst the city bustle.
While meandering about, don’t miss the iconic Commander's Palace restaurant, housed in a posh turquoise Victorian home since 1880. Stop in for a drink and pretend you're a well-to-do Creole socialite. For a pick-me-up, grab a coffee and pastry at the chic Frenchmen Art and Books, chatting with locals on the shady front porch.
To truly immerse yourself in the architecture and lore of the neighborhood, consider a guided walking tour. Local insiders will regale you with stories of the elite families who first developed the area and point out design details you'd easily miss. Some tours even include entry into private homes and access to secluded gardens rarely seen by tourists.
Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler! An Insider's Guide to the Soul and Passion of New Orleans - Ride the Streetcars for a Classic NOLA Experience
Slip back to the early 1900s aboard one of New Orleans' historic streetcars, clanging along tracks first laid in 1835. These vintage trolleys evoke the romanticism of a bygone era, while also serving as a convenient and scenic way to explore the city today. Four lines crisscross through downtown and neighboring districts, each offering an authentic NOLA experience.
The landmark St. Charles Avenue Streetcar is a must, winding beneath ancient live oaks along the grand mansions and parks of the Garden District and Uptown. Queue up at one of the neon-trimmed shelters dotting St. Charles Avenue, then hop aboard a green trolley to rattle down the tracks. Gorgeous antebellum homes glide by, along with Loyola and Tulane Universities' stately campuses. After ogling the architecture, rest your feet and grab an icy daiquiri or refreshing Sno-ball at a stop like Maple Street Patisserie before heading back downtown.
The Canal Street Streetcar traces a parallel path to St. Charles through the CBD, French Quarter, and beyond. Lined by palms instead of oaks, Canal Street showcases the city's cosmopolitan energy with hotels, shops, and restaurants flashing by the historic trolley's windows. Pop off halfway to immerse yourself in the boutiques and Creole eateries of Mid-City. Or stay on to the end of the line at historic Cemeteries #2 and #3, taking a somber stroll past the unique above-ground tombs.
The Riverfront Line offers sweeping views of the Mississippi River as it connects the French Quarter and Warehouse District. The bright-red trolley cars are ideal for getting your bearings or simply enjoying the riverside panorama drift by. Hop off at Spanish Plaza to take in live jazz and watch steamboats chug past, or head to the up-and-coming Bywater neighborhood to explore local art galleries and cafes off the beaten path.
For a ride back through time, the vintage green Perley Thomas streetcars of the St. Charles line are true relics. Restored replicas of 1920s cars still in use, they feature bentwood seats, brass fittings, and ceiling fans to keep you cool. Their mahogany coloring and intricate details will whisk you back to the early days of New Orleans transit. If you listen closely, you may even hear the ghost of Tennessee Williams scribbling dialogue overhead, as he famously did while riding the St. Charles line.
Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler! An Insider's Guide to the Soul and Passion of New Orleans - Tour the City's Famous Above-Ground Cemeteries
Death is intricately woven into the fabric of New Orleans, with elaborate above-ground tombs forming entire cities of the dead that intermingle with the living neighborhoods. Wandering these unique cemeteries allows you a glimpse into the city’s distinctive customs, beliefs, and history.
Unlike most American cities, New Orleans buries its dead in elaborate multi-level stone crypts rather than burying coffins underground. This tradition arose because the water table sits mere feet below ground, causing underground coffins to frequently float up during heavy rains and flooding. Family tombs were the pragmatic solution, with generations stacked upon generations inside a single stone structure.
These labyrinthine cities of the dead have an eerie beauty, with rows of crumbling stone crypts sealed with rusted iron gates. Side by side rest prominent historical figures and everyday citizens alike of various religions, races, and social classes in these potter’s fields. Some have elaborate stone carvings of angels or crosses atop their facades, while simple blocks distinguish others. Flowers and keepsakes left by loved ones adorn many tombs.
The most famous cemetery is St. Louis #1 in the French Quarter. Established in 1789, its packed crypts exemplify New Orleans’ European aesthetic. Here lie voodoo queen Marie Laveau, real estate developer Bernard de Marigny, and early jazz pioneer Danny Barker among other famous locals. Meander past the tomb of the supposed quadruple-burial of the LaLaurie mansion’s victims, but look out for Nicholas Cage’s odd pyramid-shaped tomb!
Lafayette Cemetery #1 in the Garden District offers a verdant, park-like setting under sprawling oaks. Peek through the wrought iron fence to spot the tombs of Irish immigrants who fled famine, as well as social organizations like the Jefferson Fire Company tomb. Multiple family members share space in many crypts, evident from the dozens of names etched across each.
St. Louis Cemetery #2 is worth a visit to see ornate stonework by 19th century immigrants. The striking white-marble tomb of Civil War Confederate General Albert Pike catches the eye, while other memorial societies like the Portuguese Benevolent Association purchased plots to bury their countrymen.
For an off-the-beaten-path experience, cross Bayou St. John to St. Vincent de Paul Cemetery in the Faubourg Marigny area. Here lie many free people of color from the colonial era onwards, like the Extra Gang Laborer Society for day laborers. The tombs tend to be well-kept, showing relatives still honor their ancestors.
Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler! An Insider's Guide to the Soul and Passion of New Orleans - Immerse Yourself in Voodoo and Local Traditions
Voodoo may seem taboo or over-sensationalized, yet it’s an integral part of New Orleans’ heritage that continues influencing the city’s distinctive spirit to this day. Tracing voodoo’s roots offers insight into the diverse religious beliefs molded by the city’s unique convergence of cultures. respectfully experiencing voodoo rituals allows a nuanced understanding of this community's worldview.
The foundations of New Orleans Voodoo lie in West African spirituality and animist belief systems, blended with Roman Catholicism. Enslaved Africans hid their ancestral faith practices under the guise of Catholic icons and saints. Resulting syncratic traditions like song and dance rituals to channel spirits reflect this complex spiritual history.
The voodoo “queen” Marie Laveau exemplified this synthesis, leading public voodoo gatherings into the 1830s that incorporated Catholic elements like incense or holy water. She ministered to diverse groups, offering African healing practices to white elites while advocating for the poor and imprisoned. Her tomb in St. Louis Cemetery #1 continues attracting visitors hoping to receive blessings.
Follow in Laveau’s footsteps with a guided walking tour like Hoodoo Nola or French Quarter Phantoms. These immerse you respectfully in voodoo history, visiting sites like Congo Square, Our Lady of Guadalupe chapel, and Saint Peter Street shops stocking spiritual supplies. Guides emphasize education and cultural insight over sensationalism.
Attending a live ritual allows deeper understanding, but be sure to follow proper etiquette. Artist Priestess Miriam hosts ceremonies for the public select Fridays at her New Orleans Healing Center. Soak in the drum beats, chants, and trance dancing meant to channel deities’ energy. Engage mindfully and avoid excessive photos or disruption. Donating or purchasing items from the on-site botanica supports this important cultural hub.
Beyond staged events, look for voodoo’s influence subtly integrated across New Orleans. Candles burning beside Mardi Gras parade routes invoke spirits’ protection, while residents sprinkle “goofer dust” to ward off negativity. The New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum displays everyday charms and talismans for love, money, and luck. Let streetcar cemeteries, above-ground tombs, and apothecary shops transport you to an era when voodoo thrived openly.