Exploring West Africa’s Hidden Coastal Gems A Review of MS Spitsbergen’s Intimate 13-Day Cruise Route Through Cape Verde, Senegal, and The Gambia

Post Published November 19, 2024

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Exploring West Africa's Hidden Coastal Gems A Review of MS Spitsbergen's Intimate 13-Day Cruise Route Through Cape Verde, Senegal, and The Gambia - A New Era Of Small Ship Cruising From MS Spitsbergen's West African Base In Dakar





The MS Spitsbergen's Dakar base has ushered in a new era of small-ship cruising in West Africa. Since launching its inaugural 13-day West African itinerary in 2023, the vessel, designed for smaller groups of around 220 passengers, has found a niche serving an average of 58 travelers per trip. The ship's compact size and focus on a select few guests creates a more personal experience, allowing for stronger interactions between both the passengers and crew, fostering a unique atmosphere. This tailored experience isn't limited to the ship itself, with shore excursions weaving travelers into the fabric of the local communities. Exploring destinations like Praia in Cape Verde, with its cultural tapestry and vibrant immigrant scenes, reveals the potential for discovering hidden gems. The region, previously a less explored cruising territory, is attracting attention as an alternative for those looking beyond traditional routes. However, this growing interest isn't limited to Hurtigruten. Other companies like Ponant and Silversea are starting to send their ships to the Bissagos Islands and Cape Verde. This newfound spotlight on the region may well introduce an exciting future for exploration and tourism, yet the success and long-term sustainability of these initiatives is still uncertain.

A new chapter has opened for smaller-scale cruising with the MS Spitsbergen's home base in Dakar. This ship, built for more intimate experiences with a capacity around 200 passengers, contrasts starkly with the larger cruise liners often found elsewhere. This smaller size provides access to smaller, less frequently visited ports, adding a unique dimension to traditional cruising.

Hurtigruten, the operator, introduced these West African routes in 2023 with a series of 13-day itineraries. These voyages, often with fewer than 60 passengers, explore a variety of coastal points within a region, including Senegal, The Gambia, and Cape Verde. Destinations like Santiago Island and the bustling Praia are showcased, providing insight into the dynamic cultural and societal makeup of Cape Verde.

The ship itself, the result of a 2016 reconstruction, offers modern amenities. One can expect a diverse culinary experience, attempting to weave in regional ingredients and West African flavors. But it's unclear if their onboard chefs truly deliver on capturing the nuances of the local cuisine.

Given that these areas experience a dry season during the November to April timeframe, which aligns with the typical cruise schedule, weather patterns are somewhat predictable, at least in the near term. This is important given the ship's reliance on technology and potentially sensitive navigation and weather monitoring systems.

There's a palpable increase in broader interest in the region as other companies like Ponant and Silversea have added itineraries to Cape Verde and the Bissagos Islands for upcoming seasons. This surge in interest suggests that a gap in tourist offerings has emerged, or that the area holds hidden appeal. It'll be interesting to see if this novelty can be sustained in the long-term.


Accessibility has also improved via Dakar's upgraded airport, providing more convenient connections for travelers globally. However, it's unclear how much this contributes to the overall cost of visiting, as the cruise itself can be quite costly - upwards of $7,000 per person for a 13-day voyage. Additionally, while flights within the region appear to be getting less expensive, it's yet to be seen how well-connected the whole region really is for more ambitious multi-destination trips.


This smaller scale approach does also highlight a focus on the area's less explored coastal environments and cultural nuances. Travelers are encouraged to participate in excursions involving local artisans, gaining a more intimate view of daily life and customs. This immersive aspect of the cruises is certainly intriguing, though the impact of tourist flow on these communities remains unclear. Furthermore, the legacy of the region's historical context – the transatlantic slave trade and its influence on Dakar – can be part of the onboard experience. However, the question of how effective these efforts are to foster more nuanced conversations and better understanding of this complex history is still an open one. It's worth remembering the coastlines themselves boast a great variety of marine life, containing over 150 fish species and several marine mammals, revealing a rich natural aspect worth examining further.



What else is in this post?

  1. Exploring West Africa's Hidden Coastal Gems A Review of MS Spitsbergen's Intimate 13-Day Cruise Route Through Cape Verde, Senegal, and The Gambia - A New Era Of Small Ship Cruising From MS Spitsbergen's West African Base In Dakar
  2. Exploring West Africa's Hidden Coastal Gems A Review of MS Spitsbergen's Intimate 13-Day Cruise Route Through Cape Verde, Senegal, and The Gambia - Local Food Markets And Traditional Cooking Classes In Saint Louis Senegal
  3. Exploring West Africa's Hidden Coastal Gems A Review of MS Spitsbergen's Intimate 13-Day Cruise Route Through Cape Verde, Senegal, and The Gambia - MS Spitsbergen's Off Season Pricing Strategy Makes West Africa Accessible At $538 Per Night
  4. Exploring West Africa's Hidden Coastal Gems A Review of MS Spitsbergen's Intimate 13-Day Cruise Route Through Cape Verde, Senegal, and The Gambia - Night Photography Sessions At Cape Verde's Santo Antão Mountains
  5. Exploring West Africa's Hidden Coastal Gems A Review of MS Spitsbergen's Intimate 13-Day Cruise Route Through Cape Verde, Senegal, and The Gambia - Supporting Local Artists Through MS Spitsbergen's Onboard Gallery Sales Program
  6. Exploring West Africa's Hidden Coastal Gems A Review of MS Spitsbergen's Intimate 13-Day Cruise Route Through Cape Verde, Senegal, and The Gambia - Alternative Transportation Options Between Banjul And Dakar For Independent Cruise Extensions

Exploring West Africa's Hidden Coastal Gems A Review of MS Spitsbergen's Intimate 13-Day Cruise Route Through Cape Verde, Senegal, and The Gambia - Local Food Markets And Traditional Cooking Classes In Saint Louis Senegal





Saint Louis, nestled on Senegal's northwest coast, holds a fascinating blend of history and culinary delights. Its role as a former French colonial capital has left an indelible mark on the city's food scene, resulting in a unique fusion of traditional Senegalese and French cooking styles.

The local markets are a must-visit for any culinary enthusiast. Here, the emphasis is on the fresh, local ingredients that form the foundation of the city's cuisine. You can find a wide array of fruits, vegetables, spices, and meats, all ready to be transformed into delicious dishes.

And what better way to truly understand this cuisine than by taking a traditional cooking class? These classes offer a unique opportunity to get your hands dirty and learn how to prepare some of the region's most beloved meals. Dishes like thieboudienne (fish and rice) and chicken yassa, staples of Senegalese street food, are often featured, allowing you to truly grasp the region's culinary heritage.

Ultimately, these culinary experiences in Saint Louis offer more than just a taste of West African flavors; they offer a deeper understanding of the region's cultural traditions and heritage. It's a chance to connect with local life and carry a part of the region's rich culture back with you. While the city is undeniably appealing, it remains to be seen whether the tourism it generates is beneficial or poses risks to this unique culture in the long run.

Saint Louis, situated on Senegal's northwestern coast, holds a special place in West African history as a former French colonial capital. This historical role has had a lasting impact on the city's culinary scene, creating a vibrant mix of traditional Senegalese and French-influenced cuisine. While the French legacy is undeniable, the city's food markets offer a window into a distinct culinary heritage, highlighting local ingredients and traditional cooking techniques.


One interesting aspect of Saint Louis's food scene is the prominence of local markets. These markets aren't just places to shop for food; they are active social hubs where interactions with local farmers and fishermen are integral to the buying experience. Many vendors are eager to share insights into their products and techniques, making the experience both educational and culturally enriching.


Furthermore, these markets reveal a unique approach to preserving food. The utilization of fermentation, especially in the preservation of fish, is a testament to the resourcefulness of local communities and is key to the area’s cuisine. Salt-dried fish is a common sight, and learning the process of fermentation reveals a level of ingenuity rarely seen elsewhere.


A key aspect of the culinary scene is the deep involvement of local women in the preparation and transmission of traditional recipes. Cooking classes taught by these women represent a unique opportunity to learn about the culinary heritage of the region, where generational knowledge is preserved through family traditions. This is important as many of these techniques are quite distinct from what one might encounter elsewhere.


The markets themselves are fascinating spaces. While some have permanent stalls, others are more temporary in nature, tied to seasonal harvests. This variability gives a glimpse into the local economy and consumer behavior as freshness and availability become key drivers of market offerings.


One finds a range of indigenous fruits and vegetables, including bissap (hibiscus) and baobab fruit, which are not commonly encountered outside of this region. This is just one example of how the local cuisine represents a diverse set of influences. In addition to indigenous Senegalese dishes, Saint Louis has been impacted by influences from neighboring Berber, Arab, French, and Portuguese communities. This creates a very heterogeneous and occasionally surprising blend of flavours. It's not unusual to discover a variety of cooking styles and unusual flavour combinations.


Further insights can be gained by participating in local cultural events where food plays a central role in festive occasions. This offers a connection between the culinary and the social aspects of the local community. These gatherings are important for understanding how food goes beyond basic sustenance and plays a part in social contexts.



While Saint Louis may be a lesser-known destination for the average traveler, a deeper understanding of its rich history is evident in its food culture. The markets and cooking classes provide an opportunity to learn how trade routes have influenced the local cuisine and how this local identity connects to broader narratives. It's an aspect that might be underappreciated by those solely focused on the physical remnants of a bygone colonial era.



Exploring West Africa's Hidden Coastal Gems A Review of MS Spitsbergen's Intimate 13-Day Cruise Route Through Cape Verde, Senegal, and The Gambia - MS Spitsbergen's Off Season Pricing Strategy Makes West Africa Accessible At $538 Per Night





Hurtigruten's MS Spitsbergen offers a compelling way to explore West Africa at a lower cost during the off-season. With prices dipping to $538 per night, destinations like Cape Verde, Senegal, and The Gambia become much more achievable. These cruises, running primarily from October through December, benefit from a reduced number of passengers, enhancing the intimacy of the experience. The smaller ship allows for a more personal feel, fostering greater interaction between travelers and the welcoming locals encountered at various coastal stops. The itinerary encompasses a mix of culturally significant landmarks, including UNESCO-listed sites, and promises a diverse culinary experience. However, the growing interest in the region, spurred by attractive pricing and unique offerings, prompts some questions. Will this newfound appeal prove sustainable in the long run? Will the balance between increasing tourism and the protection of West African culture and environments be successfully managed? The rise of West Africa as an alternative travel destination will test both tourists and operators to ensure a positive and enduring impact.

The MS Spitsbergen's strategy of offering lower prices during the off-season, around $538 per night, presents a compelling opportunity to explore West Africa's coastal regions at a more affordable price point. Luxury cruises in other parts of the world often exceed $1,000 per night, making the Spitsbergen's pricing unusually attractive. This could contribute to expanding the potential audience for exploring this less-traveled area.

The ship's ability to bring a substantial number of travelers to the region's various ports, potentially hundreds per trip, provides a substantial economic stimulus. Local markets and businesses in cities like Dakar, Praia, and Saint Louis can benefit directly from increased tourism, leading to expanded revenue streams for vendors and potentially even stimulating the local economies in more sustainable ways.

Interestingly, flight prices within West Africa seem to be trending downwards, which might encourage more multi-destination trips, and could even play a role in making the Spitsbergen cruise option more feasible for a broader range of people. Whether this trend towards lower flight costs can be sustained remains an interesting question, but the potential is there for increased tourist traffic within the region.


The waters off the coast of Cape Verde, Senegal, and The Gambia show a significant marine diversity, with more than 150 species of fish and a variety of marine mammals. While Hurtigruten does offer excursions and educational content, it remains to be seen how effectively the cruise line facilitates opportunities for learning about marine conservation efforts and the importance of these sensitive ecosystems.


Dakar's Blaise Diagne International Airport has recently undergone significant improvements, including upgrades to its infrastructure and passenger facilities. This enhances the connectivity of the region and makes the travel experience smoother for international visitors. It is too early to tell whether these infrastructural enhancements significantly impact the overall cost of visiting, however.


Saint Louis' culinary scene offers a unique case study in cultural exchange. Its history as a trading hub and French colonial center has resulted in a very particular food culture that blends the local Senegalese flavors with French cooking styles. How this fusion affects local cuisine, what it means for culinary preservation and transmission, and how well the MS Spitsbergen's culinary offerings truly represent this dynamic blend are open questions.

The onboard dining offerings on the MS Spitsbergen highlight local ingredients and attempt to reproduce traditional dishes. How well the cruise line's chefs and kitchens can translate these flavours into dishes that accurately reflect the nuances of West African cuisine remains a subject of debate. It's difficult to assess the degree to which the onboard dining experience is authentic to the region or how this experience contributes to a deeper understanding of West African heritage for passengers.


The MS Spitsbergen's reliance on cutting-edge navigational technologies, including weather monitoring systems, is essential in this part of the world, which can experience a range of climatic variations. These technological capabilities not only increase safety for the passengers but also potentially enable more precise and comfortable travel in the region.


One notable aspect of the MS Spitsbergen is its lower capacity compared to larger cruise ships. The average trip seems to only carry around 58 passengers, minimizing overcrowding at port calls and fostering a greater degree of personal interaction between passengers, crew, and local communities. However, the long-term impact of even a smaller ship on local communities and delicate environments deserves further attention.


Saint Louis' food scene is arguably becoming a significant driver of the region's tourism. This creates a unique opportunity for travelers to get directly involved in the cultural fabric of the region, and has the potential to shift broader perceptions about food traditions within West Africa. It remains to be seen how well the tourist interest translates into positive impacts for the local population, and the broader community.



Exploring West Africa's Hidden Coastal Gems A Review of MS Spitsbergen's Intimate 13-Day Cruise Route Through Cape Verde, Senegal, and The Gambia - Night Photography Sessions At Cape Verde's Santo Antão Mountains





Exploring West Africa’s Hidden Coastal Gems A Review of MS Spitsbergen’s Intimate 13-Day Cruise Route Through Cape Verde, Senegal, and The Gambia

The rugged, mountainous terrain of Santo Antão in Cape Verde provides a unique backdrop for nighttime photography. The island's relatively isolated location translates into remarkably dark skies, minimizing light pollution and creating an environment ideal for capturing the vastness of the cosmos. The dramatic peaks and untouched natural beauty of the landscape offer a compelling canvas for photographers to experiment with light and shadow, particularly in the context of the subtropical climate. The blend of nature and a potentially clear night sky creates an environment ripe for astrophotography. These night-time explorations can enhance the overall travel experience, allowing photographers to appreciate not just the island's visual splendor, but also its rich ecology and the inherent natural beauty found within the archipelago as a whole. While this opportunity is a draw, the tourism it attracts needs to be monitored, as its impact on the environment and the local population remains unclear.

Santo Antão, the second-largest island in the Cape Verde archipelago, is a haven for those seeking a less-developed and more authentic Cape Verde experience. Its mountainous terrain, formed by ancient volcanic activity, creates a unique setting for night photography. The relatively low population density leads to minimal light pollution, providing optimal conditions for astrophotography.

The island's diverse landscapes, including deep valleys and steep cliffs, offer a fascinating subject for night photographers. The interplay of moonlight and starlight on these features can create dramatic images unlike anything typically found along coastlines. While the island does have a subtropical climate, the higher elevations in the mountains mean temperatures are generally pleasant at night, facilitating longer photographic sessions without the extreme heat typical of the lower-lying regions.

The variety of vegetation and wildlife found within the mountain ecosystems adds another dimension to photography opportunities. Night photography techniques, such as long exposure, can reveal the unique beauty of endemic species that are often difficult to capture during the day. The island's cultural tapestry also offers a unique element to photographs. Rural villages, with their traditional architecture, subtly illuminated at night, can create poignant images that show a connection between the human and natural elements of the island.

Furthermore, some viewpoints provide a vantage point that encompasses both the mountains and the Atlantic Ocean. Capturing these scenes during the night is a fascinating way to present the island's natural beauty. Even specific cultural festivals that take place during the evening offer opportunities to photograph and document local traditions and customs.

While the opportunities are appealing, night photography in the mountainous landscape also presents some challenges. The uneven terrain requires robust and stable tripods, which are crucial in these conditions for capturing sharper images. There is a definite level of complexity involved in this type of photography, necessitating a degree of planning and equipment awareness that some casual photographers may not consider.

It's intriguing that conservation initiatives are actively promoting the preservation of Santo Antão's night skies. This could position the island as a unique destination for astrotourism, enriching its tourism portfolio and possibly highlighting a niche market. While the extent to which this may impact the island’s overall tourism appeal and long-term strategy remains to be seen, the idea of promoting Santo Antão as a premier location for night sky observation certainly adds another layer to its allure.







MS Spitsbergen's onboard gallery program is a commendable effort to help artists in the West African locales visited during the cruise—Cape Verde, Senegal, and The Gambia. By selling the artwork of local artists, the cruise line aims to boost their income and strengthen the bond between tourists and local communities. This program offers a way for visitors to learn about the culture of the region firsthand through the art that is produced there. The program has the potential to bolster local art scenes. Nonetheless, with increased tourism comes the risk of exploitation, and it's crucial to ensure that the initiative remains beneficial to the artists involved and doesn't merely commercialize their cultural heritage. This balance between art, tourism, and local identities serves as a prompt for mindful engagement with the communities who make the cruise a worthwhile experience.

MS Spitsbergen's integration of an onboard gallery for local artists offers a glimpse into a potential new avenue for cultural exchange within the cruise industry. While the usual focus is on souvenir shops, this program seeks to provide a more nuanced interaction with the art and cultural heritage of West Africa. The selection of artworks provides a diverse representation of local artistic expression, from traditional crafts to modern creations, all reflecting the multifaceted heritage of the region.

This initiative serves as a bridge between travelers and local artistic communities, aiming to foster a deeper understanding of the culture through visual representations, moving beyond basic interactions with the local populace. The economic impact can be notable, as every artwork sold generates income directly for the artists, potentially strengthening their ability to continue their craft.

Interestingly, this approach links art directly to the stories and experiences of the artists. The background and inspiration of each artist are often woven into the descriptions of their pieces, fostering a deeper connection to the local culture for the cruise passengers. There are also instances where workshops are held onboard, allowing travelers to get hands-on experience with local techniques and interact with artists directly.

Furthermore, this art program, by its very existence, transforms the cruise into a more engaging experience, incorporating cultural exploration alongside the usual sightseeing. It isn't simply about passive observation, but rather an active form of engagement with the local arts scene. If successful, it could pave the way for similar programs on other cruises, potentially creating a more vibrant marketplace for local artists beyond the constraints of their immediate communities.


This initiative is also an attempt to redefine how MS Spitsbergen is positioned in the travel landscape. It moves away from being merely a transportation vessel and more towards being a facilitator of culturally relevant experiences. Whether this will be enough to sustain a larger and ongoing audience for the MS Spitsbergen and similar ships is unclear. The appeal of the gallery and art showcase is crucial to the success of this program in the long run, suggesting that the cruise industry is trying to adapt to a changing clientele who are increasingly interested in seeking out culturally sensitive and impactful travel experiences. This evolving need for a more nuanced interaction with the communities and environments visited, though promising, remains an experiment with an uncertain outcome.



The potential impact on the art markets themselves, and if this can become a consistent driver of broader economic development for the artists, is an open question. While there's a clear intent to make this a viable option for local artists to reach new audiences, we are in the early stages of seeing how this program develops. One could potentially envision a future where this model could become a more sustainable pathway for artists, helping preserve these cultural expressions in the long term. But it is worth noting that the program itself may need to evolve as passenger preferences and tastes shift over time.



Exploring West Africa's Hidden Coastal Gems A Review of MS Spitsbergen's Intimate 13-Day Cruise Route Through Cape Verde, Senegal, and The Gambia - Alternative Transportation Options Between Banjul And Dakar For Independent Cruise Extensions





Extending your West African adventure beyond the MS Spitsbergen's itinerary can be easily achieved by exploring the various options for travel between Banjul and Dakar. While a few regional airlines offer direct flights, these can often be expensive and don't operate as frequently as one might expect from a mature market like Europe. A more budget-friendly approach is traveling by land, with private taxi services offering rides for usually less than 150 dalasi. This option, though potentially less predictable, can offer a unique perspective on the region. Alternatively, the Barra ferry terminal in Senegal offers a more reliable way to reach Banjul with regular departures and potentially more picturesque views of the coastline. You can research schedules, potential route options, and estimated travel times and costs using travel platforms dedicated to mapping out travel options for your preferred style.

The relative ease of moving between Banjul and Dakar through these various methods adds another layer of potential for independent exploration of this often-overlooked region in West Africa. Whether you decide to go by road, sea, or air, the access afforded by these different options adds flexibility to your cruise extension plans and can enhance the overall experience of exploring these hidden gems along the coast. It's worth noting that the quality of transportation and information available regarding these options can vary depending on your specific travel dates, so it's important to plan in advance and consider the trade-offs between convenience and cost.

Connecting Banjul and Dakar beyond the confines of the cruise ship presents a variety of options for independent exploration. While direct flights between the two cities are available, they can be costly, especially compared to options within Europe. Regional airlines, like Air Senegal, have attempted to serve this route, but it's unclear how robust their operations are, and how frequently they are able to deliver on their schedules.

The ferry connection from Barra to Banjul offers a compelling alternative. It’s relatively fast, usually taking 2-3 hours, providing a welcome contrast to the slow-paced and often-congested land routes that can take eight hours or longer. This is made possible by a ferry service that operates frequently, ensuring that travelers have a reasonable choice for a smoother connection. The current border crossing procedures between The Gambia and Senegal have been streamlined due to inter-governmental agreements, potentially easing the passage between the two countries. There have been instances where the ferries themselves have had issues with reliability, so some level of planning and backup options are probably required.

Land travel, typically handled through negotiating with private taxi drivers, might be considerably less expensive than flying or even the ferry, but this comes with a potential for risk and a less reliable experience. The state of the roads themselves can make journeys challenging, requiring a degree of caution and an understanding that the overall journey could be unreliable.

A future rail link is on the drawing board, which would give a completely different and potentially scenic experience in connecting these two important West African cities. It's unclear when such a project would materialize and how viable it might be, but the idea of exploring the region at a slower pace by rail is an intriguing possibility.

Within the transport network, there are local shared minibuses, also known as 'car rapides', that offer a way to immerse yourself in local life. These can be a cheaper option, and offer a different perspective on the region, as travelers interact with people going about their daily lives.

Dakar's central position makes it a logical hub for travelers. It serves as a link to various destinations in the wider region. If a longer and more involved journey across West Africa is desired, planning carefully can take advantage of Dakar's connection with the broader region to create a more economical journey.

Travel planning has become easier due to the growth of online resources and apps. It's now easier to compare fares and find available ferries in near real-time. This enhances the convenience of booking travel between these two cities. There is a wide network of shuttle services operating between Banjul and Dakar, providing more flexibility in coordinating cruise extensions. The routes between Banjul and Dakar also intersect with various local markets and street food vendors. This adds to the travel experience, offering a way to explore the region's culinary offerings in conjunction with transit.

This transport network is the subject of ongoing adjustments and improvements, both on a physical and regulatory level. The ferry service and the border crossing efficiency appear to be making travel between Banjul and Dakar increasingly convenient, but the region's road infrastructure will continue to be a challenge for some time to come. While these connections provide opportunity, it's important to consider that the area can experience some variability in service and reliability. It's vital to factor this into any planning, and potentially consider backup options.


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