How Strange Travel Advice Led to Discovering Hidden Gems in Japan’s Tsumago Post Town

How Strange Travel Advice Led to Discovering Hidden Gems in Japan's Tsumago Post Town - A Night at Okuya Inn Shows Why Japanese Mail Carriers Made Tsumago Their Rest Stop

Okuya Inn, located within the historical Tsumago post town, provides a window into Japan's Edo era. Its significance as a resting point for mail carriers traveling the Nakasendo route – connecting Kyoto and Edo – is still evident today. The inn's impeccably preserved structure highlights the traditional Japanese hospitality that once catered to travelers centuries ago. Tsumago’s commitment to authenticity shines through in the preserved town itself, where cars are banned, creating a peaceful atmosphere and a true sense of the Edo period. This careful preservation extends beyond the inn to the entire town, encompassing traditional activities and restored structures. While staying at Okuya, it's not just about accommodation, it's about absorbing the rich history of this once crucial point on the route. It's an opportunity to immerse oneself in the past and experience the heart of a bygone era of Japanese travel and life.

Stepping into Okuya Inn provides a tangible understanding of why Tsumago became a crucial stopping point for Japan's mail carriers. Its role as a wakihonjin, a secondary inn on the Nakasendo Trail, underscores the logistical needs of the route connecting Kyoto and Edo. This trail was a critical artery for both travelers and couriers, and Tsumago's location made it a natural staging point. The inn's preserved architecture reveals the design considerations of the Edo period.

While the primary inn (honjin) was unfortunately lost to time and rebuilt later, Okuya's existence gives insight into the typical scale and layout of these accommodations that once housed thousands of travelers, including samurai. These inns were crucial components of the post town system, providing rest, food, and a chance to resupply. The deep, two-story structure of Okuya, and likely other traditional buildings in Tsumago, reflects the need to maximize space for travelers and to manage the flow of goods through the post town. It highlights an interesting aspect of the Edo Period — efficiently balancing functionality with aesthetics.

The survival of Tsumago stands as a testament to the efforts of preserving post town infrastructure during the Showa Period. Preserving these historical jewels was, in part, a reaction to the declining importance of these towns due to the advent of rail travel. It was a concerted effort, and the design of the Okuya Inn, and other preserved buildings, showcases the remarkable effort and commitment to traditional Japanese architecture. This preservation also allows visitors to experience the atmosphere of Japan during the Edo period in a very palpable way, even now in the 2020s, through these preserved structures, allowing a glimpse into how these mail carriers and merchants once interacted in the region.

What else is in this post?

1. How Strange Travel Advice Led to Discovering Hidden Gems in Japan's Tsumago Post Town - A Night at Okuya Inn Shows Why Japanese Mail Carriers Made Tsumago Their Rest Stop
2. How Strange Travel Advice Led to Discovering Hidden Gems in Japan's Tsumago Post Town - Following Wrong Directions Led to Finding The Secret Waterfall Trail Behind Kotokuji Temple
3. How Strange Travel Advice Led to Discovering Hidden Gems in Japan's Tsumago Post Town - Lost GPS Signal Brings Local Family Restaurant With 300 Year Old Soba Recipe
4. How Strange Travel Advice Led to Discovering Hidden Gems in Japan's Tsumago Post Town - Why Tsumago Train Station's Confusing Schedule Makes Winter Visits More Rewarding
5. How Strange Travel Advice Led to Discovering Hidden Gems in Japan's Tsumago Post Town - Meeting Local Woodworkers Who Still Create Edo Period Designs in Original Workshops
6. How Strange Travel Advice Led to Discovering Hidden Gems in Japan's Tsumago Post Town - How Walking The Wrong Way on Nakasendo Trail Reveals Lesser Known Mountain Views

How Strange Travel Advice Led to Discovering Hidden Gems in Japan's Tsumago Post Town - Following Wrong Directions Led to Finding The Secret Waterfall Trail Behind Kotokuji Temple

While exploring the historical Tsumago post town, a wrong turn during a visit to Kotokuji Temple, a Rinzai Zen temple nestled in a residential area of Tottori, Japan, unexpectedly revealed a stunning, secret waterfall trail. Although the temple, established in 1500 and linked to a pilgrimage route focusing on the deity Ebisu, often plays second fiddle to the nearby Kannonin Temple with its famous garden, this detour led to a remarkable natural discovery. It serves as a reminder that stepping off the pre-planned itinerary can yield remarkable and unique experiences, particularly when exploring historical towns dedicated to preserving their traditional structures and atmosphere. The hidden waterfall trail behind Kotokuji Temple demonstrates the diverse hidden beauty that can be found just beyond the usual sights in Tsumago. It reinforces the allure of Tsumago and its surrounding areas for those seeking to discover unexpected wonders. In this meticulously preserved district, where the Edo Period charm is so meticulously maintained, travelers can uncover a harmonious blend of history and nature. And while you are at it, perhaps try exploring some of the other, older, buildings near Kotokuji Temple which might reveal additional facets of the Edo period in Tsumago. With gems like these easily stumbled upon, the town continues to enchant visitors who embrace the idea of adventure.

Following a set of directions that, shall we say, were not entirely accurate, led to an unexpected discovery—a secret waterfall trail tucked away behind Kotokuji Temple. This area, like many others within the Kiso Valley, exhibits a complex interplay of geological features shaped by water erosion over time. This creates a landscape where trails can be a little less predictable, and potentially, less documented. These very same geographical anomalies can make some routes, like the one found near Kotokuji, less obvious or simply overlooked.

The waterfall itself appears to be a product of both the seasonal rainfall and possibly underground springs that are common in Japan. The hydrology here, like in many areas of the country, changes dramatically with the seasons, creating ephemeral waterways and waterfalls that become visually stunning, especially during the wet periods. These transient water features contribute to the unique allure of the region, one that can easily escape the gaze of a more straightforward visitor.

The entire region surrounding Tsumago has, since ancient times, been a crucial transportation corridor. The Nakasendo trail wasn't only a passage for travelers between major cities but served as an economic artery, facilitating trade and communication across the entire area. The infrastructure you see now bears witness to the significant impact that transportation and the flow of goods had on the shaping of the area's cultural landscape.


Yet, the advent of rail transportation during the Meiji era gradually diminished the role of these historical routes. The postal system, once crucial, saw a major decline. The upkeep and maintenance of many of these trails are more of a testament to preserving historical heritage now, rather than actively being employed for their original purposes. In this regard, the decline of transportation modes underscores the evolving nature of landscapes and how things shift from their utilitarian function to the realm of cultural appreciation.

It's worth pointing out that the very act of getting lost, or rather, discovering the unexpected, reflects a somewhat predictable psychological phenomenon. Travelers, guided by experience or a hunch, often have this tendency to veer off what appears to be the "right" path. The bias to confidently choose a different route sometimes leads to wonderful surprises, much like what we stumbled upon near Kotokuji. It seems the "wrong" direction sometimes leads to new discoveries.

The unique biodiversity of the region, specifically around the hidden waterfall trail, also reveals the dynamic relationship between local ecosystems and regional climate. Species of plants and animals are influenced by the local climate and conditions, a microcosm of biodiversity at work.


Looking back in time, we find that people during the Edo period relied heavily on local knowledge for navigating these routes. Mapmaking and widespread cartography was less common, and reliance on organic navigation methods prevailed. This is a fascinating aspect of how older forms of travel existed. People primarily learned about a place by experience and local guidance, emphasizing the experiential aspect of travel.

It's a consistent pattern, at least in Japan, to find a plethora of local eateries and vendors near these temples, including Kotokuji. The culinary experiences offered in these venues often feature seasonal ingredients, allowing for a vibrant understanding of the local culinary landscape. These small eateries provide another way to explore and understand this area.

The legacy of travel and pilgrimage routes remains deeply woven into the fabric of Japanese culture. The traditions of walking these paths, particularly around Tsumago, persist across generations, reinforcing a deeper cultural identity. This sense of connection to the history of the land is perhaps what draws many travelers to these areas.


And finally, it's evident that in the design of Kotokuji Temple, and in many surrounding structures, an intuitive understanding of the flow of the natural world is built into the architecture. Temples and structures are oriented to respect and align with the geographical and hydrological features of the surrounding landscape. These elements reflect a deep understanding of the environment and how to integrate man-made structures with natural processes.

How Strange Travel Advice Led to Discovering Hidden Gems in Japan's Tsumago Post Town - Lost GPS Signal Brings Local Family Restaurant With 300 Year Old Soba Recipe

While exploring the preserved streets of Tsumago, a lost GPS signal often leads to unexpected encounters. One such encounter was a local family-run restaurant, where a 300-year-old soba recipe has been passed down through generations. This restaurant, Honke Tsuruki Soba, serves soba noodles that are renowned for their rich taste and smooth texture. The soba is complemented by a savory broth and offers an array of traditional toppings like tempura and yuba. Their Oumimusuri Soba, a dish featuring three distinct toppings, offers a sampling of this time-honored soba.

These local establishments often reflect the dedication of Japanese communities to maintaining traditions. The focus on handmade noodles and a warm, inviting atmosphere creates a special experience that both draws in travelers and nurtures a sense of local pride. Soba, a traditional Japanese staple, is deeply connected to the rural landscape of Japan. The enduring popularity of soba restaurants in this region reflects a commitment to the heritage of soba-making, passed down through generations of families. It's a reminder that when visiting a town like Tsumago, beyond exploring the carefully maintained historic sites and buildings, authentic local food experiences can further enrich the trip, and highlight the beauty of unexpected encounters and serendipitous detours. In a way, these food establishments reveal an important facet of Japanese life, rooted in the concept of omotenashi, or selfless hospitality. This is perhaps best displayed when finding a local restaurant serving dishes that have been refined over centuries, demonstrating a desire to share a piece of their culture with visitors.

A malfunctioning GPS unit, a common occurrence in the mountainous terrain, unexpectedly led us to a local family-run restaurant with a remarkable history—a 300-year-old soba recipe. It highlights how technology, while undeniably useful, can occasionally obstruct the discovery of hidden gems that might otherwise remain unnoticed.

The restaurant, "Honke Tsuruki Soba" located in Otsu, serves soba noodles prepared according to a recipe passed down through generations. It's a testament to the persistence of culinary traditions within a society that values a deep connection to its history. The noodles are prepared in a variety of ways, enjoyed hot or cold, and their flavor, a testament to the experience of the cooks, is reportedly quite remarkable. The rich, flavorful broth often served with the noodles seems to be part of what distinguishes the restaurant from others in the area.


The region's soba culture isn't an isolated event. Other notable examples in the area, like "Sarashina Horii" which dates back to 1789, demonstrate the historical depth and significance of soba in this particular region. It's been a favorite of the Imperial household for some time and a popular choice of the Shoguns during the Edo period. Both "Honke Tsuruki Soba" and "Sarashina Horii" follow a tradition of making all the noodles from scratch, which further reflects a deeper connection to the techniques and materials used in producing the noodles. These types of practices are an essential element of the region's identity.

A small restaurant run by Reiko Tsuzuki, "Tsuzuki Soba House", is another example. Located in a remote mountain village, Reiko Tsuzuki’s dedication to maintaining these traditions underscores the importance of maintaining handcrafted practices in a modern world increasingly dominated by automation.

These kinds of local, family-run establishments with strong ties to tradition are representative of the soba industry across Japan. Although some modern practices are starting to blend in, with things like contemporary side dishes and specials, the fundamental commitment to preserving traditional processes and techniques is still strongly present. The heartfelt atmosphere present in most of these places, coupled with the quality of food and attention to detail, are the hallmarks of local soba shops. This makes them particularly attractive for both locals and visitors looking for authentic experiences. These shops create spaces that preserve traditions and local culture for everyone to appreciate.

It's clear that traditional soba restaurants play a more significant role than just offering meals. They represent a link to a historical past, a cultural identity that is becoming increasingly important in a globalized world. As transportation and travel habits continue to shift, and the value of local craft and history becomes increasingly important, places like these become a significant aspect of the cultural landscape. They represent a part of Japan's heritage that, through simple food, preserves the richness of its culinary past and present.

How Strange Travel Advice Led to Discovering Hidden Gems in Japan's Tsumago Post Town - Why Tsumago Train Station's Confusing Schedule Makes Winter Visits More Rewarding

The intricate and, at times, bewildering train schedule at Tsumago Station can initially seem like a hurdle, especially in winter. However, this very characteristic of the station becomes a blessing in disguise during the colder months when Tsumago's allure is amplified. With fewer trains running, the pace of your exploration slows, allowing for a deeper immersion into the town's serene and perfectly preserved Edo-era atmosphere. Winter's touch transforms Tsumago, draping it in a captivating blanket of snow that adds another layer of beauty to its already picturesque environment. This, in turn, enhances the appeal of outdoor activities, from venturing through the nearby gorges to taking part in local crafts and culinary experiences that draw heavily from time-honored traditions. The absence of cars throughout the day maintains Tsumago's tranquil atmosphere, making your exploration a journey back in time. You'll have more time to savor the unique charm of the town, experiencing traditional food like locally made soba, a dish with centuries of culinary history woven into its recipe. Tsumago ultimately turns the supposed limitations of its train schedule into a feature that enhances its cultural depth and allows visitors to unearth a more rewarding and enriching experience.

Tsumago Train Station's winter schedule, with its reduced frequency, might seem perplexing at first glance. However, this unusual approach to service can actually enhance the experience of visiting the town. Fewer trains mean fewer crowds, allowing for a more tranquil exploration of Tsumago's historic streets and shops. This creates a more immersive experience into the town's preserved Edo-era atmosphere, encouraging spontaneous exploration and a deeper understanding of its heritage.


The winter schedule also appears to be directly related to weather patterns. Japan's winters can bring substantial snowfall, impacting travel and creating a need for careful planning. The train service seems to be adjusted accordingly, balancing the potential for travel disruptions with visitor experience during slower periods.


Moreover, the Kiso Valley itself, where Tsumago is nestled, has a fascinating geological history shaped by tectonic movement and erosion. The region's geological diversity translates into varied hiking trails and spectacular scenery. The less frequent train service can serve as an incentive for visitors to venture out and experience these natural features during winter.


The natural environment also reveals a unique biogeographical story. Tsumago's mountainous region supports specific plants and animals that flourish in colder temperatures. The winter schedule can be an advantage for nature enthusiasts eager to witness seasonal changes and observe wildlife adaptations.


This unusual train schedule also serves as a gentle reminder that technology, while handy, shouldn't always be the sole guide. The uncertainty surrounding the train service can encourage visitors to rely more on local knowledge and traditional methods of navigation, like printed maps. This shift away from GPS dependency can cultivate a more fulfilling and personal connection with the place, emphasizing the importance of human exploration and interaction.


Tsumago's designation as a preserved historical post town has influenced various aspects of its operation, including train service. The less frequent winter schedule is in line with preserving the town's ambiance and avoiding an influx of visitors that might disrupt its unique cultural heritage.


Furthermore, the train service may help regulate tourism, which could be beneficial for the local economy. A slower pace in winter can assist businesses, like restaurants and inns, with managing resources effectively. This more measured flow of visitors can translate into a more attentive and personalized experience for travelers in these establishments.


The connection between the town's history and the culinary traditions found in Tsumago is noteworthy. The legacy of the Nakasendo route, a critical transport pathway for the area, is mirrored in the historical practices used by the local soba restaurants, showcasing the enduring impact of efficient logistical routes and their role in shaping cultural practices. The food itself can offer insight into the unique traditions of the community.


Finally, the unpredictable train schedule can inadvertently encourage a slower, more deliberate approach to travel. Psychological research suggests that "slow travel" can lead to increased mindfulness, a greater sense of satisfaction, and a deeper connection with the environment and culture of the visited locations. Tsumago's unique transportation rhythm allows visitors to explore these psychological advantages of exploring at a more measured pace.



In conclusion, while Tsumago Train Station's winter schedule might initially cause some confusion, it is a unique feature that can create a more fulfilling and rewarding travel experience. It fosters a sense of mindful exploration, invites interaction with the natural and cultural heritage of Tsumago, and offers a glimpse into the enduring links between transport, history, and local culinary traditions.

How Strange Travel Advice Led to Discovering Hidden Gems in Japan's Tsumago Post Town - Meeting Local Woodworkers Who Still Create Edo Period Designs in Original Workshops

Tucked away in Tsumago, a few remaining workshops continue to produce beautiful woodwork in the styles of the Edo period. These artisans maintain the original methods, using techniques like yosegi zaiku, a complex marquetry, and sashimono, a type of joinery that avoids nails for a clean finish. You can observe these expert woodworkers in action, building items that are not just practical but also cultural relics. These traditional techniques offer a connection to Edo-era design principles and are a tangible reminder of the ingenuity that shaped Japanese woodworking centuries ago. Experiencing these workshops and encountering the woodworkers who create these pieces enriches a trip to Tsumago, reminding us of the enduring legacy of craftsmanship found throughout Japan. They remind us that some things, even with a world of modern technology, are better done the old-fashioned way. Witnessing this commitment to maintaining time-honored skills provides a powerful sense of how the past informs the present.

Within Tsumago, a fascinating aspect of the Edo period (1603-1868) is the continued presence of woodworkers who uphold the original designs and techniques of that era. These workshops offer a glimpse into a time when skilled hands, not machines, shaped the built environment and everyday objects.

The Edo era witnessed significant development in Japanese woodworking, including innovative joinery techniques like "shikuchi" which allowed for the construction of robust buildings without the use of nails. This method showcases the resourceful nature of craftsmanship at the time and is a testament to the durability of their designs, many of which are still standing today. This region also boasts of several traditional buildings that were once crucial components of the Nakasendo Trail, the historic trade and transportation route. It highlights how the craftsmanship during the Edo period served a purpose beyond simply creating beautiful things.

Interestingly, many traditional Edo period designs inherently integrated earthquake-resistant features. Local woodworkers of today still understand and practice these ancient building methods, demonstrating a sophisticated understanding of the natural environment. In many cases, the wood utilized in these designs originates from local species like cedar or cypress. The inherent pest and rot resistance of these timbers extended the useful life of Edo era artifacts and designs, demonstrating how craftsmen sought to make the most of the natural resources at hand.

The limited availability of modern tools and materials also influences the process of creating these artifacts. Many artisans in Tsumago still rely heavily on hand tools and traditional methods passed down through generations, resulting in a distinctly unique and slow process. This approach, in a way, stands in contrast to the rise of mass-produced and industrialized goods of recent times. These artisans maintain a connection to a heritage of craftsmanship that stands in stark contrast to an age of factory-made objects.

However, this traditional approach does not mean that they are isolated individuals. Woodworkers in this area have historically worked with other craft professionals, such as blacksmiths and textile weavers. These interconnected networks created a rich environment for exchanging knowledge and skills, ultimately supporting both cultural heritage and the community. Moreover, this type of craftsmanship doesn't stay within the world of furniture and architecture. It extends to items used in the daily life, and culinary practices of the region, creating bespoke cutting boards or serving platters for use in local kitchens.

The resurgence of tourism, particularly focused on preserving this historic region, has influenced the continuation of these traditional skills. The desire to experience the Edo period culture has prompted a rising demand for local craftmanship. Woodworkers have responded by introducing contemporary variations and designs while simultaneously holding on to the core essence of Edo-era design sensibilities.

This drive to retain historical methods has also manifested as a means of education. Many woodworkers open their workshops to visitors, offering an educational experience and exchanging traditional knowledge. Visitors can learn about the materials, tools, and intricate processes involved in creating a piece of woodworking. This type of knowledge transfer not only preserves a heritage but also generates a shared understanding of the culture, providing an opportunity for both local craftsmen and visitors to engage in a collaborative act of learning.

Finally, some woodworkers are dedicated to documenting the details of their designs, including the historical development of different techniques. In doing so, they not only maintain a historical record of their own family's or personal expertise, but contribute to a collective memory of Edo era woodworking for generations to come. This documentation ensures that Edo-era traditions and practices continue, even as the world continues to change around them. This ongoing effort helps ensure that future generations can learn from the creativity and ingenuity of past generations, connecting the craftspeople of the Edo period to those who follow in their footsteps.

How Strange Travel Advice Led to Discovering Hidden Gems in Japan's Tsumago Post Town - How Walking The Wrong Way on Nakasendo Trail Reveals Lesser Known Mountain Views

Exploring the Nakasendo Trail can yield unexpected rewards, especially when you veer off the beaten path. This ancient trail, which historically linked Kyoto and Edo, offers stunning mountain views and peaceful landscapes that are often missed by those sticking to the most popular sections. The famous 8-kilometer stretch between Magome and Tsumago is a common choice, but straying from that well-trodden route can unveil breathtaking vistas and a deeper appreciation for the area. The Nakasendo's hidden gems include secluded trails that showcase the natural beauty and the remarkable heritage of this region. It’s a journey that invites travelers to embrace serendipity and appreciate that the most memorable moments are often those that arise from unexpected turns. Taking detours and venturing off the main routes can lead to encounters with local craftspeople, creating a more immersive experience of Japan's rich cultural history alongside the natural landscape. It's in these unexpected moments that the true magic of the Nakasendo unfolds.

Walking the Nakasendo Trail in a less conventional manner, straying from the well-trodden paths, can unveil lesser-known mountain panoramas. The trail itself is an ancient thoroughfare, dating back to the 8th century, a time when it served as a vital artery for trade, political maneuvers, and military expeditions across Japan. This historic path, stretching over 533 kilometers, cuts through diverse landscapes: mountains that rise sharply, valleys that plummet deeply, offering both awe-inspiring views and a challenging walk.

The trails around Tsumago, like many within the Kiso Valley, were sculpted over centuries by the relentless forces of erosion. This dynamic geological process contributes to the area's captivating and unpredictable nature, with landscapes that twist and turn in surprising ways, often surprising those who venture off the beaten path. Psychological studies indicate that getting a little lost can enhance our spatial awareness. On the Nakasendo, where every deviation can yield a distinctive view or encounter, this tendency is particularly amplified.

In the woodshops of Tsumago, the craft of woodworking is preserved, utilizing intricate joinery techniques predating modern construction. This ancient wisdom of building without nails not only creates aesthetically pleasing structures but also exemplifies a deep understanding of local geology and how to best weather earthquakes. The region’s sensitivity to seismic events and ancient architectural practices are intertwined, influencing how these workshops still operate today.

Additionally, the appeal of the Nakasendo Trail can shift with the seasons. A blanket of snow during winter exposes previously hidden pathways and transforms familiar scenes into a different realm, enhancing views and trails that are often overlooked during other seasons. This unique quality creates a diverse array of landscapes that can be explored depending on the time of year, making each journey a unique adventure.

The varied terrain of the region around Tsumago fosters a plethora of ecosystems. In these mountainous areas, plant and animal life are exceptionally well-adapted to the altitudes and climate. It's a rich biodiversity hotspot, teeming with flora and fauna that are just waiting to be uncovered by those willing to leave the usual trails behind.

In the Kiso Valley, the interplay of underground springs and seasonal rainfall shapes the landscapes in dramatic ways. These natural water sources create the occasional waterfall, contribute to lush vegetation, and cause the entire character of the region to vary depending on whether it's a wet or dry period. The region’s hydrology is dynamic and adds to the trail's unexpected beauty, particularly after periods of rain.

The soba dishes served at many of the local eateries aren’t just food, they embody the essence of culinary tradition and history. These dishes benefit from the specific characteristics of the area’s soil and climate conditions which are ideal for the growth of buckwheat, an essential ingredient in soba noodles. Local conditions are reflected in the final product, further showcasing the connection between food and the area.

Before the advent of GPS devices, navigation depended heavily on local knowledge and familiar landmarks. This traditional approach to finding one's way around is firmly rooted in Japanese culture. The deliberate act of choosing a path without reliance on precise technology offers opportunities for a more engaging and enriching travel experience. Even the slightest departure from a well-worn path can produce unexpected delights and a greater appreciation for the landscape and the people who built and traveled this ancient route.